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#1
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I didn't realize that vinegar (acetic acid) would work too. btw, CLR is a mix with 2 different acids.
Thanks guys!
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Kurt S - CRG |
#2
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I have used metal rescue with very good results. I needed a large quantity, 10 gallons, and was able to obtain it through Home Depot. The stuff was delivered to my door for less than $200. I used it to de-rust some survivor 69 SS rims. I bought a 30 gallon plastic trash can, put in one rim at a time and let the chemical go to work. I didn't take any before and after photos though, but I was very satisfied with the result. I ended up using a cheapo $7 pond pump from Harbor Freight to move the fluid around. That seemed to improve the results. The good thing about this stuff is that it can be re-used.
Phil Woj. |
#3
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For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage.
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#4
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 70 copo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage. </div></div>
Thats a must! If you do not screen out the rust particles that have fallen into the mixture the product continues to work and will break down the PH even sooner. Same goes for getting your parts as clean as possible before you soak them.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#5
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We use evaporust on a regular basis, to clean light surface rust on parts and sheet metal.
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#6
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I have used evaporust for over two years. Works excellent.Purchased a 55 gallon drum over a year ago and its still going strong.The big thing is to keep grease/oil out of it and do a quick sand blast before. It has had engine blocks,heads,rear ends,sheet metal,steering boxes.rotors,intakes in it.I think every piece of my ta has been it at one time. John
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#7
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SS427</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 70 copo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For reuse I have found that it is better to screen the bigger rust particles and flakes out of the liquid prior to storage. </div></div>
Thats a must! If you do not screen out the rust particles that have fallen into the mixture the product continues to work and will break down the PH even sooner. Same goes for getting your parts as clean as possible before you soak them. </div></div> I think Rick's message is the key. I've used it but if I leave it sit after one use, it goes to pot on it's own. That's a major waste of money. Once it turns black, it's no good at all. Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] |
#8
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Evaporust is what I have used with excellent results in saving original phosphate coatings on hood hinges and hood latches, also works to remove the rust on Ebrake pedal assys very well.
The Original Paint Black Vintage Certified RS/Z had evaporust used extensively, I too believe it is the same as safest rust remover.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#9
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There are several things that can be used, and I have tried everything mentioned. Depends on what you are using it on as to what will give the best results.
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#10
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Temperature is something you need to closely watch. Cold solution will not be very effective short term while warm solution works pretty fast.
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