Unmolested LT1 Motor with 6000 Miles / CTB Coded

[Nova Research Project]

I updated the 1970 LT1 Engine Original Markings and Details page.

Have at it guys.

Greg

[WILMASBOYL78]

Great job Greg!

wilma

[Jacsey 70Z]

Thanks from everyone on the nice welcome, There are a lot of anal types on this board like myshelf so this should be fun. I'll try to keep Chuck busy, but that might be tough!!
Phil, you don't have to worry about this car ever being restored, all I'm doing is taking my time and cleaning the best I can without disassembling to much. I don't even want to put a wrench to any bolts I don't have to. And trying to be careful not to loose any factory marking.
Been cleaning the last couple weeks under the car with it up on a hoist, Lowered the trans so I could clean the tunnel top of the trans and bellhousing along with documenting the backside of the engine. Remember I haven't touched a can of paint and don't plan on it, this is just cleaning with various cleaners and brushs.
Few things to note in the pics, the O on the right head it's on the top of the orange and the X on the left head is under the paint (very interesting). The super heavy paint along the top of the bellhousing with runs all the way to the trans. The clip holding the TCS wire, top left trans bolt.
Greg, Not sure if your the one that see's the 6000 mile engine in the post but I would love to know the VIN off the pad down by the oil filter.
Phil, would love to know the rust on top of the radiator plate quiz, mine has plenty, also has something writen on it that looks like the word SMOG.
Sorry so long,
Jack










Here's a better pic, them are the original tires!!

[70 copo]

The rust on the top of your radiator plate, Your fender support bars and the wear on the lid of your air cleaner were all caused by contact with the underhood insulator material. After I restored mine I immediatly noticed scuff damage (even when I trailered the car) with the hood down.

The solution was a layer of 6ml Polyurathane sheeting during transport.

If I was going to drive the car, and I wanted to preserve the restoration the best I could I guess I would have to remove the insulator. It is 100% correct in thickness and just as abrasive as the original.

Phil

[SS427]

Greg,
On the distributor vacumm advance, is that yellow paint or yellow grease pencil? Thanks.
Rick

[rszmjt]

Rick, It is Yellow Paint.

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Mike next chance you get over to see the engine Would you mind posting ALL of the
date codes on the CTB engine. These are the only dates I can see in the pictures. Which
BTW are Awesome. Thanks for sharing them with us….
Mark L

Block - Cast G10 Assembled 0707
Heads - F230 – F90
Intake
Carb - 021
Distributor
Wires
Water Pump
Exhaust Manifolds
Alternator
Timing Cover

[rszmjt]

Hi Mark, No problems, i will get them tomorrow at work and post them tomorrow nite.

[Jacsey 70Z]

I took a couple picture of the ignition shielding on my car to help clear up the confussion on what cars got it and what it's purpose was. The tag on the inside reads like this...
"This shield reduces ignition interferance in vehicle radio. To replace contact set for adequate clearance use 1931988 (D106P) or 1966294 (D112P) as specified. See Delco Remy Bulletin 6724"
Hope this helps.
Jack

[rszmjt]

Mark,
The water pump is F-19-0
The Dist is 0-E-13

I can not tell you the intake dating, it has never been off the engine and the date is under the inner shielding.
The exhaust manifolds were missing when i got the engine.

I will get the date off the wires and repost them later.

Hope this helps.
Mike.