1966 Corvette L72 Light Refresh

[SupremeDeluxe]

Originally Posted by napa68

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.

That tool is a novelty item. You need the lead hammer and enthusiasm.

As an aside, modern Porsche center-lock wheels are a similar design and the torque spec is 440 lb-ft. A plastic-lined tool with a breaker bar/cheater pipe config isn't getting anywhere near.

[TimG]

A friend had a stuck spinner and purchased the "tool" to remove it. It wouldn't help. I just got the big lead hammer and wacked it until it came off without issue.

[napa68]

I'm killing some time today, as a sore back is keeping me out of action. The sun is out, and thought a few pics were in order.....

[SupremeDeluxe]

White interiors are just magic.

[napa68]

Yesterday I dove into the wonky master cylinder. The back boot was loaded with brake fluid. You could say I found the smoking gun. On the bright side, it is the original unit to the car. GM sourced the master's from Bendix originally. This one being dated the 342 day (Bendix did not cast the year into the casting) which equates to December 8th of 1965. Right in line for a January built car.




I found a decent amount of corrosion on the bottom of the cylinder back by the rear seal. I honed the hell out of it, but it will need to be sleeved. I have new master on the way, so I can get the car back on the road. I'm honestly impressed the car made it this far with it's original master. At some point, I'll get it reinstalled. Spring is in the air here in the northwoods of Wisconsin

[cheveslakr]

Any thoughts of where you're having it rebuilt Tim? Just went through this, and just put mine on the shelf and bought a new master. I switched to Dot 5 because of the leak I saw at the rear, and I'm paranoid of getting Dot 4 on my paint. I was a step ahead though, in having all new lines and drained calipers.

[napa68]

Originally Posted by jer

Any thoughts of where you're having it rebuilt Tim? Just went through this, and just put mine on the shelf and bought a new master. I switched to Dot 5 because of the leak I saw at the rear, and I'm paranoid of getting Dot 4 on my paint. I was a step ahead though, in having all new lines and drained calipers.

I sent this out to White Post Restorations. I have used them several times in the past and have been happy with the results.

https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving...ding-services/

[60sStuff]

White Post is who I have used for decades.

I always instruct them to preserve the Original finish that I send them and Do Not paint.

[napa68]

In an effort to keep my mind busy while I am waiting on parts for a customer car, I decided to have a peek into the T.I. amplifier. As you can see, it had the original transistorized board in it. I keep a solid state board in stock, as these tend to go south with no notice (that occurred on my injected 65). I also had a back up T.I. box, so I did the install in that. I'll keep the old transistorized unit as a spare. It's a pretty straight forward installation. Of course my dumb ass neglected to take a picture of the new board, so all you are getting is a file photo I could be kidding myself, but the car seems to idle a little smoother with the solid state board in it. Only one of the bolts for the T.I. box was original, so I'll source the correct fasteners when I run across them.






I had a new master cylinder arrive yesterday, so I could enjoy the car while White Post is sleeving the original. So much for being proactive........that one leaks at the rear, and is sucking air when bench bleeding. I guess it's a sign I should slow down and just wait for my original to come back.

[Too Many Projects]

Well, that sucks... hope that "new" one has a warranty and you can send it back for a full refund.