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#1
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I know Ram says "no break in required", but that seems counter to what every other clutch manufacturer recommends. I would think that any new clutch needs to "bed in" for a few 100 miles or so, just like brake pads don't provide full pad contact right out of the box.
Having said that, I could only wait about 50 miles before "testing" my organic Centerforce disc. I'm not patient enough for 500 miles of "grandma-style" driving. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img] |
#2
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: novadude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know Ram says "no break in required", but that seems counter to what every other clutch manufacturer recommends. I would think that any new clutch needs to "bed in" for a few 100 miles or so, just like brake pads don't provide full pad contact right out of the box.
Having said that, I could only wait about 50 miles before "testing" my organic Centerforce disc. I'm not patient enough for 500 miles of "grandma-style" driving. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img] </div></div> That is the process I have always followed. 100 miles break-in varying rpm from 2500 to 3000 to 3500 to 4000 and finally 6-6500 shifts after the 100 mile break-in.. Only clutch that I am aware that does not need a break-in is the iron disc race style clutches. The only Ram clutch setup I had success with were their twin disc systems. I hope you get it straightened out. |
#3
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The last time I replaced the clutch behind the '09 I used an OEM '69 Corvette 11" pressure plate with a woven disc. IT had those little fibers sticking up all over it so I figured it wouldn't hold as designed until those wore off. I didn't want to waste time driving around for many miles before they wore off so I put it in reverse, set the parking brake, revved it up and rode the clutch until there was plenty of nasty smelling smoke everywhere. That break-in took about 30 seconds and the clutch has never slipped or failed with many miles after that including 4000rpm launches with slicks.
All I can say is that "it worked for me". [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif[/img] Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] |
#4
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I'm getting a crash course in clutch tech 101 on this project.
I've had several stick cars before this, but none were anywhere near this power level--maybe 400-ish tops. That said, I've never once performed any sort of "break-in" procedure on a clutch, I've always taken it out and hammered on it...never once had one slip, even a generic parts store unit. I've had a couple that chattered a little, but I've always just chalked that up as being part of the game with a stick. What threw me with the 2nd disc (the one I just took out) was how it let go when I rolled into it in 1st gear. Even with this power, easing into it from a roll with a 4.56 screw in the back in 1st gear, I wouldn't think it should slip under those circumstances. Maybe if it'd been a somewhat aggressive launch, or hitting it from a roll in 2nd or 3rd I might expect it. Upon removal, seeing how it was only making contact in the center half of the friction surfaces explains to me why it slipped. FWIW, I didn’t do any break-in with the original Powergrip setup and it held fine. It seems a bit odd that something designed primarily for racing use would require a break-in—I’d imagine most people install them and take them straight to the track. At any rate, the new clutch is in (and my back is <span style="font-style: italic">out</span>! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif[/img] ). I still have to mount the shifter and bezel, but that's about it. We're supposed to get another break in the weather later this afternoon, so with any luck (and assuming my back cooperates) I'll try to get the car back out for a bit today. |
#5
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Good luck Eric ... you've had your share of issues with your Velle' ...
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
#6
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I sure hope I'm not jinxing myself here, but.....
I think we've got it. I took the car on my usual test drive circuit plus a little detour "just because". I gently nudged it up....uh....a "bit" over the speed limit and the car is smooth as silk so far. I leaned into it a little bit from a roll in 2nd gear and there was no sign of clutch slip. I didn't want to pound on it just yet, I'll give things a little more time to get acclimated again first. As far as the clutch itself goes, it's smooth as silk as well...very nice engagement, no chattering in any forward gears and the pedal effort is mild as it was before. There is some chatter when backing the car up, but nothing I can't live with. The weather tomorrow is supposed to be nice, so I may try to get the car out for a bit more of an extended drive. Once I get a little more time on the car I'll try to get it to the track. Hopefully that will be before the summer is out. More later. |
#7
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#8
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Love it! Worth all the efforts Eric.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#9
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This is great news - well done [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/
![]() Dan
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69 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Frost Green 69 SS396 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Lemans Blue SOLD 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Gulfstream Blue 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Burnished Saddle http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PM3DE8qI2NY https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn4xEmGypUw |
#10
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OUTSTANDING [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
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