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#1
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The more I look at the yellow Yenko, I have to say you make a real good argument with it. If the black were rubbed on too much, the over spray into the yellow probably would have been cleaned up a lot.
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-Dave Semper Fi! 69 Camaro SS396 L34 X66 |
#2
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After taking a serious look at the original photos of my fathers (now mine) car and walking out in the garage and looking at it I decided to try something. Here is a little test I performed on the car. You will obviously see the square where I used Meguiar's #7. Then an example of the green and finally a close-up of the black after a good hand buffing with the #7. The main thing I have realized is that lacquer when it dries out from years of no treatment becomes faded and loses its gloss and luster. For years I was on the semi or satin side but now after working with polishes and lacquer paints I have been converted...
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#3
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you can spray anything flat black, like a rat rod. Take a buffer to it and your rat rod is now shiny new black paint.
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67 Z28, 67 RS/SS 396 Canadian, 73 Camaro Z28/LT Carolina Blue |
#4
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I don't think anyone is buffing the trunk lips on these original cars; lots of shine in the original paint, whatever the % is.
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#5
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: resto4u</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can spray anything flat black, like a rat rod. Take a buffer to it and your rat rod is now shiny new black paint. </div></div>
Not sure if your comment was referencing me but I can assure you no buffer was used.. Only hand polish and we are talking less than a couple minutes.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img] |
#6
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The problem with flat or semi gloss black is that one good waxing and it is now forever gloss black.
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#7
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Steve I guess that leads me to my next point/question.. When these cars came out of paint for the body color it then traveled through the next stage which was the striping and black out area. I would bet that the black used for the stripes was the same that was used for the bb blackout, rs blackout etc.. This is an interesting read and lends to some speculation on both sides but I just don't see GM using multiple blacks for the fear of creating a possible mistake.. Maybe I'm wrong..
http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml |
The Following User Says Thank You to cook_dw For This Useful Post: | ||
markinnaples (04-17-2018) |
#8
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Is it possible that the black rear panel cars were sprayed with gloss black after the car received its body color reflowed lacquer and then it would not take on the shine of regular black painted cars that received the reflowed process? That is basically what the above posted link says in it while addressing the black painted rear panels.
I am old enough to remember looking at these cars new in the showroom and the rear panel was not satin or flat black, they had a shine to them, but not as shiny as the regular black painted cars
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69 camaro X11, 56,000 miles, original HO paint 67 camaro SS/RS, Butternut yellow, bench, fold down |
#9
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Personally I don’t think it is straight black, It looks as though DuPont mixed a little white and maybe a little yellow into the formula similar to some of the under hood formulas. Then again the matting agent will sometimes make it look a little milky. You would have to do a few spray out cards to determine what percentage of Matt and which toners you would need.
Mark
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Kentucky Gold 70 SS/RS L78. 81 Z/28 Silver/Silver Int 09 G8/GXP #992 98 Pontiac GTP Daytona Pace Car #605 90 Olds Touring Sedan SUPRCHRGD L32 83 El Camino |
#10
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Again I am pretty protective of the book research but again for the sake of giving you a definitive answer here is a Photo excerpt from the book "Echoes of Norwood" © 2013 Philip Borris and some additional non published research that was not put in the book (but perhaps I should have?)
<span style="font-weight: bold">"The back panel paint was applied on the line between ovens 2 and 3. The paint was the same paint used on the rockers. The gloss difference was a technical result of the temperature differences within the last reflow oven. The first being where the upper portions of the body were exposed to more consistent heat than the rockers and the reflow process was always more glossy in those areas". "If there was a temperature difference in plant say a summer day- the body was already hot going into the oven - warm to the touch- as opposed to a winter day where the body would be cool to the touch. All of these factors played into the final reflow outcome" "Cars built in cooler conditions in plant probably were less prone to high gloss where cars that cycled into the oven on a hot day had better and more consistent reflow due to the oven getting a fairly warm body to start with" </span> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It is my hope that this will put this issue to bed once and for all. The above is an excerpt of an interview from 6 years ago from the paint Department supervisor who was actually there and can prove he was there. His name appears on the 1969 personnel listing at Norwood as a Fisher Body employee in paint. In addition He supervised the man in the picture below. My Guess... Cars built in the summer <span style="font-weight: bold">glossy</span> Cars built in the winter <span style="font-weight: bold">less glossy</span> Spring and Fall <span style="font-weight: bold">split the gloss %</span> Merry Christmas!! Enjoy. |
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