67 Z small journal crank

[427king]

I took a 20K mile 67z motor with original bearings apart 3 /4 years ago and it had a 6467 crank. Ive always been under the assumption that everyone used the 283 crank because there are 20000 of them for each 6467 you will find? I dont usually go solely by what is printed in a book ,but ive always seen 6467 listed as the true Z crank for 67 in most publications. I guess its like using a 6223 crank in an L88 instead of a 7115. Why spend 1700.00 when you can get the 6223 for 250.00,and some people will argue both are correct ??

[Denis]

I think the reason people want the 822 crank is that that's what Colvin's book says you need to have. So everyone building a 67Z wants the 822 crank with the telltale notch. This isn't something that even the diamond judges are looking at so Colvin's book is what we're using as a guide.

When I rebuilt the engine in my 67 Z, I replaced the 6467 crank with an 822 because that's what I believed was correct. Picture below isn't great but the 822 has a single pie-shaped cutout on the rear flange:



Now, after some years have passed, I'm also starting to think Colvin was wrong and that the 6467 is the correct crank. Convincing arguments are from the chaps who've taken apart original engines (Zedder and 427King earlier in this thread), plus the fact that my engine still was standard bore and had the factory unique dome-shaped pistons and connecting rods in it. Why would somebody swap the crank only?

What did I do with that old 6467 crank you ask? I think I sold it to "budnate" at the last swap meet I was at and sharing a booth with him.

[69RSZ]

interesting. But didnt that require a different balancer and not the fat 302 harmonic balancer?

[Salvatore]

67 and 68's used the L79 balancer. Same size as the 69 balancer. Difference was the timing marks. On the L79's and 67-68 Z's the marks lined up with the key way and the 69's on up didn't.

[1967Z28]

The "822" cranks aren't the only ones with the pie cut on the flywheel flange. The "6764" cranks also have it. My two in the garage are that way.

-Jon

[budnate]

it gets better..I threw it on ebay and it sold for like 20 bucks........

[Zedder]

There are some pics of "822" cranks on my old web site from 5 or 6 years ago...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/67z28owner/...dentifier.html

[Salvatore]

I think all the steel 283 cranks look like my 69 Z crank on the back. At least the ones I saw.

[Salvatore]

You can use the 283 rods. Same thing just not hand picked and shotpened from the factory. (pink rods) Your machine shop can paint them pink if you want. You will NEVER break them especially in a street car. A 283 crank (steel) and a set of rods will probably cost you $150.00 at the most. Have the machine shop check everything and balance the whole assembly. Its not rocket science. Sam

[Denis]

I went back and checked my notes. Geez, my memory is getting as bad as my eyesight.

For the record, I pulled a 3876768 ("64-67 283 Forged" per Colvin) crank out and replaced it with the 3815822 ("67 302 Forged" per Colvin).

The 6768 crank did not have any cutouts in the otherwise circular flange whereas the 822 had the single pie-shaped cutout.

Colvin lists both the 6764 and the 6768 as 283 cranks. The 6764 crank is available either forged or cast. A 1964-dated service bulletin outlines the difference in harmonic balancer applications as follows:

[ QUOTE ]

The 283" engine with a nodular iron crankshaft uses a harmonic balancer #3861968, whereas, the 283" engine with a forged steel crankshaft is produced with only a harmonic balancer hub #3795272.

In the event a forged crankshaft is used to replace a nodular iron crankshaft, the original equipment harmonic balancer #3861968 may be used as it is compatible with the forged crankshaft.


[/ QUOTE ]