![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Thanks! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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#2
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From what I have seen the adhesive on headliners in later model cars that were "smoker owned" ends up failing and the fabric comes loose from the foam eventually.
Steve - it looks like a great car - and a really nice way to spend time with your son. Jake |
#3
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The new bump stops arrived today from Hendrick Motors in NC. They had a pair on the shelf down there. You can see that they are made of some weird, yellow, hardened foam. The originals just crumbled away after 13 years.
At least the bolts loosened nicely with some PB Blaster. The aluminum spacers were part of the modifications done by ASC during the factory WS6 package upgrade. The WS6 cars came with 17 rims so the had to use the spacers to lower the bump stops, in order to prevent the tires from bottoming out in the wheel wells. Here you can see how the original foam section is gone, leaving only the metal backing bolted to the spacer. ![]() The new snubber next to the spacer. ![]() And after the boy installed it. Another successful afternoon project. ![]() |
#4
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Just curious, is the originals are a faulty design, why are you replacing with the same parts? The originals could have deteriorated 10 years ago.
Jason |
#5
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I'm a glutton for punishment and like original parts. The aftermarket urethane ones look like aftermarket pieces. And they require you to hacksaw off the locating tabs on the unique spacer blocks.
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#6
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a glutton for punishment and like original parts. The aftermarket urethane ones look like aftermarket pieces. And they require you to hacksaw off the locating tabs on the unique spacer blocks. </div></div>
I like the logic, I'd just find/buy another pair now for the inevitable....
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#7
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Nice TA Steve. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible ![]() |
#8
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We got back from camping a couple days ago. Nothing like spending a week in the middle of no-where in the July heat, with no A/C and then have the A/C go out on the truck the moment you start the 300 mile trip back home. Ugh! It was like a Clark Griswold family vacation nightmare from the 1960's. I ended up ordering a new condenser from rockauto while on the road and it was delivered just in time for our arrival at the homestead. I then spent an evening at my buddy's garage installing it. After 19 years, the original condenser sprung a leak at the factory seam. The new AC/Delco unit bolted right up...after some modification to the original brackets.
So the next day me and the boy tackled the smoke impregnated factory carpet. I had him remove everything and he did very well. I'm glad we pulled the old carpet since it appears that the prior owner must have tried to clean the driver's foot well area and soaked the carpet so badly that the jute and the foam padding was too wet to reuse. Here's the boy hard at work removing the rear seat attachments. He spent most of the day with me (9:00 AM to around 4:00 PM when he dumped me to go to a movie with his sister). [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img] The kid has no stamina. ![]() And here is the old carpet once we pulled it out. Many cups of coffee found their way onto the floor by the cup holder area of the console. And the driver's foot well section was just as nasty. We ended up pulling off and reusing the all factory jute backing sections from every spot but the driver's seat area, since that was soaked and moldy smelling. ![]() And the nice clean floor area...after vacuuming. We found $1.95 in change! ![]() |
#9
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I dont if you've looked at LS1Tech they have a good board to hunt for parts like the License plate cover. I have a 99 Trans Am and its a great place to figure out the electrical issues these cars are plagued with (you'll see [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img] ) My car has same roof issue as yours does, the soultion is buy a repop piece 6-700$ or find a 93-97 doner and carefully remove it and paint install the earler cars were not effected like the 98 and newer ones like ours. I cut one off at boneyard for 50$ - thats as far as I have gotten but I have more time than the funds and my car isnt so bad yet. do some searching in LS1Tech
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ![]() </div></div>
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69 RS/Z 302 VE3 Daytona 69 Chevelle SS 396 375 69 T/A clone LS6/6 speed 90 Formula 350 |
#10
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Already been over there and started a sister thread to this one. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
Just picked this up today off of a 1997 Firebird in a local salvage yard. If the paint was a little bit better I could have used it as is, but the clear coat is crackling from sitting out so long. Now comes the fun part of carefully removing it from the steel frame. What method did you use? Piano wire or a heated knife? BTW, what is the small triangular trim piece by the lower edge, held on with? ![]() |
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