![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
here's the direct link to that mustang site on the Peel-Away product: http://www.svend.net/mustang/ww73/ww73.html
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
PLEASE follow Chuck's suggestion. It's the right way to do it. Nothing else works, or is safe for the car or you.
I used a torch MANY years ago on my '62. The flame lit the undercoating and it caught on fire a few times. I blew it out of course and kept going. The next morning I woke up and the entire left side of my body was paralyzed, from my ear to my toe. Had to go to the hospital. Luckily, the feelings came back. The evaporable gases from that stuff are NOT to be breathed. Don't do it!!! Verne |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
i not sure how well this tool will work on the soft tar undercoat? mine had the hard stuff, i used a snap on tool called a crud thug. its kind of a wire wheel on a cylinder shaped tube whichs is air powered. it was a life saver, kinda on the exspensive side, but it was worth it to me. then you can media blast the metal and it looks new again. dennis
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Yep...Chucks way..heat gun and soft scraper if you want to save whats underneath...I did a 62 Chev this way...and that stuff was nasty...looked like asphalt and asbestos mixed together...
__________________
Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
heat gun, scraper for the majority then solvent tooth brush and rags to finish up should only take you about 60 hours.
__________________
69 SS L78 Chevelle 70 SS 396 Chevelle |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
As far as scrapers that won't damage underlying paint, you can pick up wood shims at places like Home Depot on the cheap. A pack of a dozen or so is a couple bucks. They're maybe 8-10in long and 1.5in wide and shaped like a wedge.
__________________
1969 Chevelle SS396 L78 M22 4:10 Tuxedo Black 1970 LS3 Malibu 400 BB convertible 1970 LS3 Malibu 400 BB coupe 1970 Chevelle 300 series LS3 400 BB coupe, special order Monaco Orange 1970 Chevelle Concours Estate LS3 400 BB wagon 1970 Chevelle SS396 L78 M21 3:55 Tuxedo Black |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
PLEASE follow Chuck's suggestion. It's the right way to do it. Nothing else works, or is safe for the car or you. I used a torch MANY years ago on my '62. The flame lit the undercoating and it caught on fire a few times. I blew it out of course and kept going. The next morning I woke up and the entire left side of my body was paralyzed, from my ear to my toe. Had to go to the hospital. Luckily, the feelings came back. The evaporable gases from that stuff are NOT to be breathed. Don't do it!!! Verne [/ QUOTE ] Verne! What the H were you doing - huffin the stuff, open the doors next time ![]()
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Marlin,
Believe me, it wasn't intentional. I had the garage door open but I still inhaled enough (more than enough). Imagine waking up because the right side of your body feels like it's lying next to something on it's left that doesn't move....... ![]() I like to use the little plastic applicators that come with body filler. They're stiff and have a nice tapered edge. Verne |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
When Dean owned the Benchmark Chevelle,he told me about an industrial chemical stripper he used to remove the reminants of the old hard undercoating that then revealed the beautiful original belly.
He said he had to drape plastisheen all around the car,for protection and on the floor to to capture it,and wear protection as well,but once finished,he rolled it all up with all the old undercoating for the garbage.I saw the finished result and thought it was outstanding.I can't recall what the name of the product was,but SS427 might know. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Went through this myself a couple of years back. I started out with Kerosene and tooth brushes. Long tedious work.
![]() I talked to Brian and Joe at the SCW and asked their expert opinions on the best and safest way to remove it, yet retain as much original finish and markings as possible. Unfortunately, they told me to use 'Kerosene and Toothbrushes!' ![]() I used a spray bottle to apply the kerosene, let it sit overnight, then attacked it again the next evening after it had softened. The plastic bondo applicators are good, as well as plastic putty knives. I sanded the corners off the putty knives before I started using them just in case the sharp corners might gouge the red oxide. When it got down to a final wiping I again sprayed the area, let it sit a couple of hours and did the final scrub with a soaked shop towel. Took along time but I think the end result was worth the effort. And BTW, kerosene fumes can be harmful too. Be sure to keep some air circulating at all times!!!!
__________________
Don't mistake education for intelligence. I worked with educated people. I socialize with intelligent people. |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|