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#11
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If there is very little to no rust I would pay between $10,500.00 to $16,500 for an original looking with good paint and running Z/28 without matching numbers on the motor and transmission. Hopefully you still have some of the information on the title search to help verify that it is a real Z/28. You did not mention it but I am going to assume that the car is the orginal color and the interior is in good shape. I would pay a premium for a car that means something extra to me as it looks like this car is special to you. Remember even if you pay more than you think you should for a car that is in very good condition, you are generally ahead of the game over the long run. Take advantage of the situation and build a CE code replacment 302 motor with a crossram or a single holly and cowl plenum air cleaner, reproduction factory style headers, a rock crusher M-22 and a set of 5-spokes. I hope this information helps.
Mark Sheppard |
#12
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I would stepup above Mark and say 15-20K. A Z is always a Z, especially if you can get a statement from the original owner.
Jason |
#13
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Thanks for the input. I can generate 1968 era pics and a few other goodies. I can still locate the original owner since they lived in Elgin SC which is a very small town. I'll drive down there and visit the original owner. Bet he'll s___ when I pull up in the car. Anyway I'm going Wednesday night to hopefully buy the car. I'm not ashamed to admit to saying I've offered 25K for the car, here again a lot of memories in the car. Either way I'll take pics and post up this week. I really think I've offered about 5K more than it would bring on E-bay(i've been watching a few)
all I can do is take a stack of $$$$ and see if he ready to sell.
__________________
1968 Z-28 1969 X-77 original 1971 RS 17's-hotchkis-406/6spd 1998 SS 6spd |
#14
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Hey Mark, I guess you would pay 10,500 to 16,500 for that Z.
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#15
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Sam,
I'm out west too. We can all dream can't we? Jason |
#16
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Stop it! You left coast guys are killin me! You blowflys want everything!
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#17
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Give us a break Sam. I've been buying your rust buckets and tossing them on the rotissorie! There are still a few rare rust free ones hiding out here too though!
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#18
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I haven't seen anyone discuss how much the potential documentation will ad to the value of this vehicle. 68's, more so than 67 and 69 because they can't be verified by the trim tag (assuming original trim tags). Even without the original engine, still worth much more to a lot of guys. More and more as the "original drivetrain" cars are drying up, buyers are becoming much more forgiving about replacement motors.
If he gets this car for 25k, and if he can run down some documentation, although on the high end, still not out of line. Of course he also has the sentimental value. Just my 02 cents. Lynn |
#19
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Ok, so I was a little low in my estimate. If it takes $25,000 to buy the car and you have good memories of the car then I stand corrected. The one thing I know for sure is if you think you paid too much for the car this year. I am sure that this time next year you will find out it was a pretty good deal. I can think of about 5 cars that I have owned in the past that I would pay well over the going price to get one of them back. I can also think of about 10 cars that I hope I never see again.
Mark Sheppard |
#20
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I think Lynn has hit on the issue that would make the car more selling friendly.
A 1968 Camaro, no matter what the model and make is very difficult to verify without some sort of documentation. As stated a million times, the trim tag tells you nothing. When it comes to documentation, I am not talking about an original owner written statement either. I can get my next door neighbor who doesn't know a Camaro from a Yugo to write a verification letter and no one who be the wiser. Without the original drivetrain to match the car and without a buildsheet, windowsticker, POP, etc., I would consider the car another small block with 4 speed 1968 Camaro and nothing more. Just my $.02 which by todays economy ain't worth squat! Rick H. |
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