OneStopRestoration's Special Orange 69 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Coupe

[Zman1969]

Rick I agree with Dave - Looking great! - question do you have any preference on the engine orange paint? reason I ask is whatever I used on my 302 I'm not happy with, I Don't remember what I used- Duplicolor? -as it turned almost flat orange after driving it I looked at a thread here and Seymour Hi-Tech EN48 was suggested, and I see several brands up on your shelf
thx Rich

[OneStopRestoration]

Hi Rich,

I have been using the Bill Hirsch stuff for all engine builds i have done. I have used everything from there Hemi orange for some 6 pack engines I built for some other guys as well as the Chevy orange for my cars. This last time i picked it up it seems to have a very long dry time, as in over a week or more. The parts still could not be touched a day after painting In the past it seems like it dired much faster. With Bill Hirsch it also seems that one time you get a quart and it is thin enough to spray and the next time im adding a reducer to because its to thick.

The reason i like it is it sprays easy, drys glossy, and after a motor is fired and gets a few heat cycles dulls down just a bit to more of a semi gloss to satin. Very durable and you can touch up, heat cycle an engine and never tell where you touched up.

[OneStopRestoration]

This is just a glimpse into the time commitment required for body work. All panels are stripped and dents worked out, followed by filler to smooth out areas. This gets followed by epoxy primer. Something else that is a pet peeve, NOS sheetmetal is does not mean perfect, and in most cases the parts you get had flaws. This quarter proved to have some serious issues behind the back wheel. Worked out the metal best i could. Also managed to get the tail panel worked, and mudded for a first sand. If your wondering why all mud, its because much like rockers you will never find a straight one. Just the way it is.

[Stihl]

Great progress on the car. You do quality work

[OneStopRestoration]

I do hope you guys are finding this somewhat interesting. I could see how for some, this could get boring fast. Body work is just something I was taught by my dad to not rush and do right. Every car i seem to work on i continue to learn more and get just a bit better.

The rocker in the first picture shows the continue process of blocking, finding low spots and filling. Dad taught me to use minimal filler. We both somewhat cringe when we see car shows and they mud the full panel and block it.

The door is back the basic, stripe, hammer dolly and in the case of this door acid off any light rust. Much easier to acid the smaller door than the roof. On this car I finally bought a dent puller. Really helps keep the filler down to as minimal as possible and with some panels you just cant get to the back side. The triangle in the bottom right of the door is just me cutting out some rust and repairing. I believe this is pretty common for 68/69 doors because of how tight the door frame is to the skin.

[scuncio]

Awesome work. My dad also taught me to do body work when I was a kid, but his was more the Earl Scheib mentality.

[OneStopRestoration]

Originally Posted by scuncio

Awesome work. My dad also taught me to do body work when I was a kid, but his was more the Earl Scheib mentality.

I had to look up Earl Scheib. Dont sell yourself short, for the name and time period the work he did was probably pretty good

[Crush]

Originally Posted by OneStopRestoration

I do hope you guys are finding this somewhat interesting. I could see how for some, this could get boring fast. Body work is just something I was taught by my dad to not rush and do right. Every car i seem to work on i continue to learn more and get just a bit better.

The rocker in the first picture shows the continue process of blocking, finding low spots and filling. Dad taught me to use minimal filler. We both somewhat cringe when we see car shows and they mud the full panel and block it.

The door is back the basic, stripe, hammer dolly and in the case of this door acid off any light rust. Much easier to acid the smaller door than the roof. On this car I finally bought a dent puller. Really helps keep the filler down to as minimal as possible and with some panels you just cant get to the back side. The triangle in the bottom right of the door is just me cutting out some rust and repairing. I believe this is pretty common for 68/69 doors because of how tight the door frame is to the skin.

I really commend you and others that have the patience for this. I for one don’t have the patience or skill and lean into ,pay, folks like you so I don’t lose my mind! Curious, do you listen to music while working?

[OneStopRestoration]

Originally Posted by Crush

I really commend you and others that have the patience for this. I for one don’t have the patience or skill and lean into ,pay, folks like you so I don’t lose my mind! Curious, do you listen to music while working?

Thankyou! The whole process is actually very fullfilling. I find i pickup a sanding block and cant put it down.

When in the shop music is required! Im also spoiled with a TV, but thats more a winter time thing when its cold out.

[OneStopRestoration]

This was a pretty decent door out of Missouri. However it did have some pin holes in the corners from dirt sitting in corners. Door a a supper deep dent just in front of the mirror that strected the metal.

This door had to get the acid treatment was well. It was all pretty light, but needed regardless. After acid neutralize, wire wheel and DA the first pictures shows its ready for dent removal and make sure its flat/curved across. Second picture is another day where the inside edges, and inner structured were blasted and primed.

Brings smiles to take something that looks hideous and transfome it back to a clean door.