![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Intentional, come on Chuck, we both know better.
![]() I like to display my decals on my cars... Don't need a microscope to see those cracks though... Just asking, not questioning you, bought from you numerous times before, never had an issue, which is why I asked. How much for the decal Chuck? Does it have any fine cracks? Thanks! ![]() -Dan
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#2
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<font color="red"> Chuck, but the last decal you sold me broke into pieces because of the fine, hairline cracks </font> [/ QUOTE ] maybe they got damaged in transit? have you contacted the shipping company? ![]() |
#3
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[ QUOTE ] <font color="red"> Chuck, but the last decal you sold me broke into pieces because of the fine, hairline cracks </font> [/ QUOTE ] maybe they got damaged in transit? have you contacted the shipping company? ![]() [/ QUOTE ] Old decals often form unseen or hard to see cracks and then break apart when set in water. If you are concerned about an old (and often expensive) decal then you can stop by the local hobby shop and get some brush-on decal film (liquid) which will restore the decal to its original one-piece condition. (Follow the instructions on the decal film.) The cracks may still be visible but the brush-on film will keep the decal in one piece as it is on the sheet before wetting. Go slow. Wet the decal and then remove it from the water and let sit until it will slide on the backing. This is a delicate procedure so do not force the decal to slide. If it doesn't slide with only very slight finger pressure then re-soak it for a few seconds and remove and let sit again. Patience is the key here. Nothing is more frustrating than having old/$$$ decals go to hell on you but these steps should prevent that! Should. ![]() |