I don't so much mind fixing dents...

[68l30]

Also one of the biggest mistakes in installing those patch panels is not removing enough of the "bad" metal. You can't weld thin rust to new metal.Doesn't work. You need a nice clean sharp edge with a nice fit up to the new panel.If you don't grind or cut the metal correctly you will end up with a edge that is cut like this / (beveled)...it should be square with thin gauge sheet steel.No gaps in the joint. Learn to tack weld first.Connect your tacks together.Start by spacing them 1" apart.Then go back and weld (tack) between them. Once your machine is set and your an expert at the tack weld....move on to a stitch weld. A row of tacks is surprisingly strong. Once connected,they are a solid weld. A whole bunch stronger than boogers and a lot eaiser to clean up......

Steve

[Schonyenko2]

I have found .o23 wire diameter works very well on sheetmetal. And I suggest you buy your wire(mild steel) from a welding supply store. There is a difference. Actually I'd suggest you buy your welder from a welding supply shop. Variable heat, and wire feed adjustments rather than click settings. Much easier to tune in. JMHO

[VintageMusclecar]

I think at this point my biggest issue is actually my welder...let's just say it's not exactly a high-end unit. I've used a Hobart Handler before at an old job I worked at, and even though I'm far from a professional welder talent-wise, the difference between those and the one I have is night-and-day. I bought my current one ~10 years ago, and really didn't know what to look for when I bought it.

I am using .023" wire right now which I purchased from a local welding store, and I'm using 75/25 shielding gas.

FWIW, all of my repairs have been butt-welds (tacked at 1" intervals to start, of course), I'm not a fan of lap joints for repairs like this, even though they're 10X easier to weld than a butt-weld.

( patiently awaits the silly comments re: "butt-welds" )

I guess I just need to bite the bullet and step up to a nice Hobart, or maybe a Miller and put this thing out to pasture.

Eric

[jasonL78]

Make sure you have a clean surface to start with, both side should be free off rust and paint. You will be amazed at the results. Just my 2 cents.

Jason

[VintageMusclecar]

Everything was wire-wheeled back to bare metal at least 1" back from the seams. (made for some interesting acrobatics trying to reach some of the areas with a 90° grinder lol)

Like I said, I'm pretty sure it's a combination of my less-than-mediocre welding skills paired with a less-than-stellar welder. I've done much nicer work with a better welder, so this is one of those instances where a quality tool makes for a better operator.

Even if I had a better welder, I'd still hate fixing rust.

Eric

[Schonyenko2]

I know everyone has a favorite, but I'm pretty happy with my Lincoln. I have both Lincoln welder, and plasma cutter. No issues with either of them. The Miller plasma cutter kept blowing circuit boards.
Butt welding is more difficult. Sometimes a copper block behind the seam helps control any bleed through.
Sometimes it's actually easier, quicker, and gives you a better finished product to replace an entire panel, than to fix a rusted area. Wheel lips are a good example.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Schoneye is right, I've also had good luck with my Lincoln welder - no complaints so far, except that I don't have a plasma cutter... yet!

I use a piece of stainless plate behind the two panels being welded, copper works equally as well.