I know you guys will tell me like it is ..

[69LM1]

OK, but who decides how much metal is too much? A frame rail? Quarters, Floors and Trunk?

I would venture to say that most of the cars we drool over have over 30% metal replacement, conservatively. Most of the old supercars were not bought as investments, but "driven hard and put away wet". Many were tubbed, which basically means the whole back of the car is new.

Just a point.

[camarojoe]

For what it's worth, this stuff has ALL been covered in detail in another long-winded thread from a couple years ago, and probably several others... this is the one that stuck out in my mind.

old rebody thread

I said it then, and I still feel the same way...

I don't see why its so hard to determine what is a rebody and what isn't. Yes, if you FIX the car you have, its not a rebody... if you turn a totally different car into one you have tags or documentation for, its a rebody... all the NOS sheetmetal in the world can't turn a car into a rebody...but taking one car and turning it into something else can. Some of you seem to be trying to say that replacing various sheetmetal pieces with new ones can eventually turn the car into a rebody... no way. I dont care if you piece by piece fix or replace every panel on your car, as long as you never bring in a different car and start taking smaller pieces (IE: the tags and firewall) of the original car and attaching them to the other one...bottom line is you gotta FIX the real car...not simply wheel in a different car and weld the real firewall to it. Seems like a simple enough explanation to me. You need to use the structure of the real car...that doesn't mean you can't do some major sheetmetal replacing, but i dont care how "bad" the car is, it can be fixed without replacing every square inch of car from the firewall back... If you don't have anything else but the firewall and tags of a real car, its a rebody.

As a side note to this... if you think its OK to replace the entire car with another car, leaving only the firewall and tags of the real one, then that would mean any clone yenko could become a real car if you found a rusty real yenko and welded the firewall to your clone... I don't think anyone anywhere would consider this clone to all the sudden become "real".... but yet thats essentially what you're saying is OK to do if youre starting with the rusty/damaged real car instead of the other way around.

[69LM1]

OK, how about a great condition car that has the cowl rusted. You need to remove the VIN to replace the cowl, does that make it a rebody.

With the car in quesion here, you could easily add all of the panels/parts without removing the VIN/Tag.

[69LM1]

Again, my point some years ago, and now remains the same.

What is the difference between a ZL1 and a 6 banger, body wise? None. The ZL1 got a different driveline from the rear to the engine and suspension. But the body, frame rails, subframe all were the same as a ZL1.

So, my personal opinion (and I know I'll get blasted for this) is that the emphesis should be on the driveline. That's what made a camaro special. No more clone worries, no more rebody worries, no more ttag worries, just real engine/tranny stamps and rear date codes and stamps. Still some room for fraud, but much reduced.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I would beg to differ that the bodies of a 6hitter and the ZL1 were the same, as those small differences are how we can tell when a ZL1 has been rebodied with a 6hitter!

Some folks lust after original drivetrain, others after original sheetmetal, most after both. Either way, a rebody is exactly as Camarojoe described, there really is no gray area.

[69LM1]

[ QUOTE ]
I would beg to differ that the bodies of a 6hitter and the ZL1 were the same, as those small differences are how we can tell when a ZL1 has been rebodied with a 6hitter!


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Whoa, no disrespect, as I can be wrong, and frequently am, but are you saying that a 6 Cyl car and a ZL1 have differences in the actual body of the car? Not bolt on items (suspension etc) BUT, Frame Rails, Body Subframe (again not suspension, but the actual frame)etc?

That would throw everything that I thought I knew about how Fischer and option codes were assigned out the window if true.

I have never seen any structural (as defined above) diffences between any of the 6cyl, X11, LM1, X66, X33 or X44 cars that I have owned. Now, I have never owned a ZL1 or COPO, so I might be missing something?

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Yes, there are differences in the bodies, some are obvious like the dual exhaust plates, etc...

[Johnny Horsepower]

[ QUOTE ]
OK, how about a great condition car that has the cowl rusted. You need to remove the VIN to replace the cowl, does that make it a rebody.

With the car in quesion here, you could easily add all of the panels/parts without removing the VIN/Tag.

[/ QUOTE ]

example would be repair


, .

I'll say it again..... we know the difference
coming up with hypotheticals is a waste of time.

John

[Johnny Horsepower]

[ QUOTE ]
OK, but who decides how much metal is too much? A frame rail? Quarters, Floors and Trunk?

I would venture to say that most of the cars we drool over have over 30% metal replacement, conservatively. Most of the old supercars were not bought as investments, but "driven hard and put away wet". Many were tubbed, which basically means the whole back of the car is new.

Just a point.

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I think we all know the difference between basket case (multiple panel replacement etc) and tag swapping.





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Bingo.

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Amen!

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