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#1
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I love that pic, we spent this past Sunday afternoon hand-sanding the rear diff. Can't beat the father-son time!
![]() Kim, Yes, the bolt was very loose when I limped it into the trailer at SCR9. Pete Gerling and I started looking at it, and noticed the slop in the belt. I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers, and the balancer nearly fell off. The key fell out onto the floor of the trailer. The key initially fit nice and tight when I installed it, but it was mangled pretty bad after the break. This was the original balancer for this engine, and fit very tight when installed. The replacement balancer also fits very tight - but I can only get it installed for about an inch. I need to finish cleaning up the keyway area with a small file, then I can install it completely. I'm open to any advice! ![]()
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#2
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I have been as high as 8,400 rpm, 8,000 plenty of times, and shift it at 7,200-7,400 so a stock balancer is NOT happy with my methods LOL I have broken 2 ATI balancers on my Buick like yours, and that was because they were too loose on the crank snout. "QUOTE" Buizilla
The ATI balancers are made from "Junk" material that is easy to machine but does'nt hold up to any abuse at all...On ProCharger blown engines the ATI balancers can't take the belt tension and the hub elongates and loosens on the crankshaft..........The material they use is probably leaded stock (Easy to Machine) and has little yield and or Tensile strength........Whenever we run into this problem we make new inner hubs for the ATI balancers out of 4150 Pre-Hard material (28-32-Rc) and the problem never returns....Talked to the ATI Tech guys and they didn't know or care what their Hubs were made from or that they were failing under a little abuse........Imagine that Ken
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![]() The Best things in life......Aren't Things |
#3
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[ QUOTE ]
I...we spent this past Sunday afternoon hand-sanding the rear diff. Can't beat the father-son time! ![]() [/ QUOTE ] Magic stuff Marlin!!! . ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
#4
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Is the crank snout chewed up any?? Any indents in the snout??
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Jake is my grandson!! |
#5
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No, the only issue with the crank is that the keyway is mushroomed a tiny bit at the edges. So, I plan to file that down, and reinstall the balancer.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#6
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Put some loctite on the bolt threads and you should be OK.
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Jake is my grandson!! |
#7
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Marlin, get a threaded balancer puller tool when installing it the next time, if you don't already have one...
JH
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aka - Mighty Mouse |
#8
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Good advice, I initially installed it via the center bolt. This time, I will purchase a balancer installer tool, and will use loctite on the threads.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#9
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Use a 5 lb sledge and a piece of 2X4. Just tap it evenly! Come on!
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