LT-1 Replacement Carb Suggestion

[GaryH]

I've had a chance to put some miles on my 71 Vette the last few weeks. The original 4801 carb is dumping fuel. I've gone through it and I think it has a warped metering body or other internal prob. I'd like to stick it in a box for the next owner and put on a new Holley. Any suggestions on what number Holley carb I could get that will have a rear metering body, is the proper color and will allow connection of all the vacuum lines? The 3310 looks the closest but has no rear metering body. I'm not worried about a choke.

[VintageMusclecar]

Gary;

Where exactly is it dumping fuel?

Warped castings are an issue with older carbs, but it's not a big deal to correct and is s.o.p. for me when I go through them. It shouldn't be any problem to make your original carb right again. I'd be glad to help if you'd like.

Eric

[GaryH]

That depends on when you look at it. It usually acts up after I jump on it. But by the time I get pulled over it stops doing it. Last night while setting the floats it started to dump out the rear venturis then it started squirting out the accelerator pump jets. Strange. It only does it when it's hot. I'm familiar with vapor lock issues but it's just not hot enough yet to be that. The engine is running cool and under hood temps are pretty reasonable. I think it's had this problem for a while as the previous owner had removed the gas cap gasket, to vent the tank, in hopes it was an issue with the canister purge system. The carb itself looks like brand new and may have had some type of professional reconditioning at some time. I'd appreciate any input you can give me

[VintageMusclecar]

Gary;

That is a strange problem, esp. being intermittent. Does it ever do this just while driving, or is it only after you've jumped on it? Have you tried jumping on it a little bit before the engine is completely up to full temp, and if so, did it do it then? (trying to determine if it's 100% heat-related)

It almost sounds like you have an intermittent issue with either a/the float(s) sticking, or needle & seat(s) on the way out, but being heat related is throwing me off a little bit.

Do you know anyone with a good carb that you could borrow? Even a generic 3310 would suffice as a temporary mule to see if that isolates the problem.

Eric

[GaryH]

It won't do it if it's not completely warmed up, Eric. It has to be driven at least 5-10 miles first. When it's cold it runs great. The hotter the weather the worse it is. I took it out this morning to let a friend drive it and it ran great. It's chilly today and we didn't go far though. The only thing that seems a little odd is, in order to set the float level I have to have the needle/seat screwed down so far that the adjusting nut is barely catching the top of it. It was like that prior to the rebuild also. Are there different length needle/seats? The floats seem fine and they are not full of fuel. I'm pretty certian it's a carb issue. I'll ask around my car club and see if anyone has a carb I can borrow to see if that fixes it though. Let me know your thoughts on the needle/seat height.

[VintageMusclecar]

When you went through the carb, what brand of a kit did you use? Did you replace the floats? If so, are they brass, plastic, or nitrophyl?

On a Holley needle & seat, usually 2-3 threads showing above the float bowl will put the fuel level at or just below the sight plug.

Keep me posted.