Motor oil info

[camarojoe]

OK so what is the recommendation for oil brand for a standard oil change on a flat tappet motor?.. not a break in, or fresh engine, but for regular usage.

[Belair62]

Joe I asked a local excellent engine builder that question to day...he shrugged his shoulders...there are no additives that are really worth a damn ...He actually rarely builds a flat tappet motor anymore. All rollers for the most part. It's important to know that it is mosy critical on break in though. Rollers are unaffected but I think we may need zinc in these old engines....are there any engine builders on this board that can shed some light ? I know the racing oild have some zinc in it still and also Rotella oddly enough.

[Pantera]

Just to bring up a different thought on the std -> or syn oil problem. I know on the Valkyrie Riders motorcycle forum, this question came up often. It was recommended that a new motor was broke-in on std oil for 5k to 10k miles and then switched to syn oil.

There was a problem with oil ring blowby when it was not done that way. It was felt the rings could not break in properly with syn oil. The zink cam lobe issue was not considered a problem though.


Pantera

[JoeG]

I agree Larry....
And it should be NOTED that breaking the engine with the outer springs or break in springs would be the SAFEST way to go when breaking in a flat tappet engine ,BUT not to cause a PANIC if you don't turn the valves down for a tight adjustment and really butter up the cam and lifters with the proper break in lube in race oil not synthetic oil and let it run according to each cam or lifter manufacturers recommendations--usually 2krpms for the recommended length of time usually 30min---Also leave the break-in lube in the engine for at least a few 2k miles keeping the engine under a light or moderate load --your engine should be fine------------Lot of guys wipe the cam lopes by adjusting VALVES down too tight on break in............

[RichSchmidt]

You can get the zinc back by using GM Engine Oil Suppliment,it is available from any GM dealer's parts department.I build many bigblock Chevy race motors with flat tappet cams and I have been preaching this practice for a while.I am still from the old school,so I have no problems running 20/50 weight race oil in my race engines so I just buy Valvoline race oil,but if I were running the tighter clearances that some builders use,or was inclined to try synthetic oil,then I would use the suppliment at every change with a lighter weigh oil.I run a flat tappet in my own 440 inch engine with 140# on the seat and 450# open spring pressures and never broke the cam in with just the outers,I just put the springs in as they were inteneded an broke the cam for about 15 minutes as most people would normally do.It has over 550run and a few hundred street miles on the engine and I think the pistons rings are going to die before the cam does.A soft ramp cam like a stock L78 or LS6 cam should have no problems with this method.

[JoeG]

[ QUOTE ]
...I just put the springs in as they were intended ...

[/ QUOTE ]
OOPS---I left that part out....

[elcamino]

I was using synthetic oil in my new 1975 Chevy Blazer and my 1973 Chevelle SS 350 back when they were new. I put way over 100,000 miles of the SS 350 Chevelle and the motor was like new when I sold it in 1977 and got a new Monte Carlo.

Amsoil (Superior,WI) came out in 1972 and Mobil 1 in 1973. I first used Mobil 1 then switched to Amsoil in 1975 and have used it ever since.

20W-50 Amsoil in for sale section

btw-You would be surprised at how many mechanics and engine builders know little to nothing about lubrication. I have seen them spend $1000 of dollars rebuilding an engine and recommend the cheapest quality oil for use. So take what they say with a grain of salt. I had one tell me once that oil was oil, pick whatever one you want and go with it.

[camarojoe]

OK, I walk into AutoZone tomorrow after work to buy oil for my Deuce, what should I buy?