Single vs. Double; Original vs. CE Block

[Belair62]

You are dealing with a low production handful of cars...I don't think you can place deductions on anything...if the one that comes up for sale is not what you want at the price offered don't buy it..wait for the next one.

[GTO_DON]

THANKS BOB

[csx289]

I'd have to agree - some cars just "are what they are", and you take them warts and all. No secret formula or Kelley Blue Book deduction chart. Case in point - original Comp Cobras , like CSX2128 that sold at Russo and Steele for $2 mil and change. Rebodied, not original motor or trans, BUT unquestionably THE car and good paperwork. Using a formula would tell you the car would be worth $4 mil if it had all original panels and drive train? Nah, it would still be $2 mil! Maybe a little more, BUT, you get the point.

IMHO, sometimes it seems as if we can't see the forest because of the trees these days. Give me a real car, with real paperwork and a great history any day over a "iffy" car with light paper and a "numbers matching" motor. I've bought a lot of great cars that the owner flat out told me were NOM , and I liked the cars so much it just didn't bother me.

What bothers me are "stampers", "restoration motors", "warranty blocks" or whatever the dishonest people are calling them these days. Again, it "is what it is" - I will take a real car that hurt its motor and don't see it as a 50% deduct. Heck, Hemi and RAIV cars have always been about 10% less when they are NOM, correct? Most likely because we all know the damn things didn't hold together if they were driven like they were supposed to be! LOL

Just my humble opinion.

Colin