![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The fitting of the tail lights and fiberglass center section. This is the center piece that people always break because they forget there are two little studs on the thin end sections that run under the taillights. The panel will self-destruct if you try to pry them off without removing the sheetmetal nuts first. This one is an NOS piece I found on ebay.
She looks like an actual car! ...Almost. ![]() |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Rear window trim fitting. Here is the before shot showing the difference in the original aluminum trim piece as compared to the factory squared-off angle of the window frame.
![]() And the in-progress shot of building up the edge up so it's at least partially resembling the curve of the original trim piece, without the big gap. ![]() |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hopefully the last of the primer layer(s) going on:
![]() ![]() ![]() |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Wow, that is alot of texture in the primer! It will take alot of blocking to get rid of that.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
You are looking for build, not flow. We use a Sata gun for priming with a 2.5 tip lays out nice, we sand wet with 320, 400, 600 and 800 before we seal with Glasurit products and paint, the T/A no problem.
__________________
My cars: 1968 Berger Z28 Camaro,1969 SS Chevelle L78 visit: www.REDZAUTORESTORATION.COM |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
You are looking for build, not flow. We use a Sata gun for priming with a 2.5 tip lays out nice, we sand wet with 320, 400, 600 and 800 before we seal with Glasurit products and paint, the T/A no problem. [/ QUOTE ] Yeah, - that's exactly what I was gonna say! ![]() |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Steve, Looking good! My Hugger Orange Camaro is almost out of the paint shop, can't wait!
![]()
__________________
69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|