What is this Hood

[70 copo]

Ask Mark Hassett. He has one of the few "real" hoods left. He can comment on how to tell the originals from the later repops. Motion installed this type in 1968 for sure. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[djunod]

That's funny! If they use the original (same) mold, what's the difference?

[whitetop]

How can you tell the early vs later style hoods?
Usually the outside is the same. Underneath the hood is where you can tell the difference between early & late styles. Much of the early fiberglass pieces from the '60'/70's was done by a "chopper gun" hence a very rough underneath surface etc. Today fiberglass pieces are of much better quality & fit. They are hand laid and in may cases use a smooth panel underneath which is bonded to the outer layer. The '71 Motion Super Vega that was featured on this site several years ago has the original hood and it is very rough underneath because it was made via chopper gun. The chopper gun literally sparayed on the resin/fiberglass so you can imagine the fiberglass did not lay down that well.
Dave

[djunod]

Chopper guns are still available & used today.

[whitetop]

Dave I agree but most of the reputable fiberglassers will not use them.
Dave

[djunod]

Thanks for the info. I'm just now venturing into the world of making my own molds & fiberglass parts. One article I have recommends using a chopper gun. None of the books that I have even mention a chopper gun. I can see how the strength of the part could be compromised by using shreds as opposed to sheets of cloth (glass, carbon fiber, etc).

I've got a question then why is there discussion about that anyway? If you didn't originally have one of these hoods on your car and you are just now putting one on, it seems like the only reason to go with the old style is to DECEIVE people into believing you have something you don't.

[Jeff H]

I think that the reason would be to have a "period" correct restoration or restification. I'm putting an original GM fiberglass crossram hood on my JL8 car because that's what was available in 69. The new repro hoods are a lot cheaper(referring to price, not quality), but there is a difference and the experts and diehard restorers can tell.

[Rat_Pack]

I have been researching the different manufacturers of these hoods for a while and have found that there were many manufacturers all over the US. The most noteable is A & A Engineering as they were the first. All of them were basically the same on the outer surface but the inner structure (bottom side) is where the differences really are. As Whitetop stated most used "chopped" glass but there are a few originals that are hand laid. The three 67 Yenkos I have looked at all have the same hood and they are handlaid, at least the final layer is that way. They have use fiberglass cloth as the final layer mainly to give the hood a more uniform finish on the bottom side. I have not been able to find the manufacturer, but I suspect it may be a first design by A & A.

Since most everyone knows about A & A (Atlanta GA) I will describe them first. They are the only hoods that I have found that have a gelcoat finish on both top & bottom. They were also non-functional due to this reason. (See attachment). Hughey's Auto Ranch in SC is currently reproducing this hood and it is identical to the original offering by A&A however the fit is a lot better. (Black hood in attached picture) The perimeter lip on this hood is about 3/8" thick, which caused the originals to warp at the end of the hood hinges. The new repro has full length steel inserts molded in to keep this from happening when using hood hinge springs. This hood is pricey but is the nicest on the market.

Other original manufacturers/suppliers of this hood were: <ul type="square">

Allied (California)
Ieco (California) not sure if they manufactured the hood or were a supplier for Allied.
Fastglas (Legendary) (PA) they still make this hood
Komponents Korner (Jerry Cunningham) Tennessee
A &amp; A Engineering[/list]
The hood VFN sells looks identical to the Ieco/Allied hood as the perimeter lip and innerstructure are very similar to what was done back then. From what I have been told the outer surface needs some serious block sanding but overall fit is good. It can be used with original hinges and latch.

The current offering by Legendary (Fastglas) looks identical from the topside but the innerstructure is not the same as original. The quality is also lacking on the bottom as it is very hastily done and would require lots of work to clean it up.

Later tonight I will try to post more pictures of these hoods with the differences shown....................RatPack.............

Ken, I have already painted the "Bardahl" hood and it is going on a 67 that I am restoring for a friend, sorry. I will try and get a picture to you later this week.

[Rat_Pack]

<font color="blue">Whitetop</font color> ,the tubs &amp; shower stalls are not a good reference for comparison of the finish on old hoods. Most of the time these companies do not take time to smooth the glass out as it will never be seen. Chopped glass lays down just as well as fiberglass mat if it is air rolled properly. About the only difference between the two is the texture. Fiberglass mat is a rolled &amp; pressed product which gives a better finish and is less likely to "print" (show through the gelcoat) once the part is removed from the mold. Also gelcoat thickness has a lot to do with "print". On chopped glass the strands will differ in length compared to fiberglass mat. Another advantage mat has over chopped glass is that you can get a more consistent build-up of fiberglass in the part you are building as it comes in different thickness'.

It starts out at a 1/2 ounce (very thin and easily seen through)and goes up to usually 2 ounce mat (very thick and cannot be seen through). Normally 1/2 ounce mat is used as the "skin coat" or first layer after the gelcoat is sprayed. This thickness is easy to "mold" once the strands are wet with resin and it helps to prevent air bubbles between the gelcoat and resin. Then there is usually a build up of another layer of this same mat once the first layer has "kicked". Then the actual build-up of the part can start with heavier layers of mat, starting with either 1 ounce or 1-1/2 ounce mat, until the desired thickness is achieved.

As far as strength goes, both offer the same support when applied properly and in the same mils. Both can be reinforced with either fiberglass cloth or woven-roven mat, woven carbon fiber, or even woven Kevlar. The finish that is usually seen on most of those original hoods was a fiberglass cloth placed over the "chopped" or mat fiberglass. This gave the product a more consistent finish on the bottom along with adding strength. No matter which type of system was used, air rolling is part of the procedure and it will smooth the surface if the correct amount of resin is used.

Most hoods made today are a "press molded" design, such as the new Camaro SS and Trans Am WS6 hoods made by SLP. These cost a lot to make and are usually only used for high production items that need to be finished on both sides.

<font color="red">Djunod</font color> , if you have not had any fiberglass mold making experience I suggest that you consult an outside source for making what you are looking for. The costs will be about the same as if you did it yourself and you do not have to hassle with the EPA. There is a company that is fixing to come out with the "stinger" hood with a functional "air box" and it looks great. They have yet to test fit it but that is in the works..............RatPack.................. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[copolocater]

Somebody has worked in a boat manufacturing facility.I agree all of the finishings on the underside of the hoods that I've seen on original SUPERCARS have a smoother finish.The underlayment is more like a mat finish that has been worked for better appearance or a neater look.I've had A&amp;A and Legendary, the A&amp;A seems to have a better appearance.I've had/ 1 metal 67 motion/1 fiberglass 67 Yenko/1 67-69 Dick Harrell and 2 67-69 motion hoods as a referance.