Oh Lordy, I now own a Fordy (a Lincoln actually)..

[njsteve]

And I was playing with the spare clock I bought on ebay 4 years ago. I started looking on youtube for repair tips and it turns out the best tip is to use brake clean and spray away all the solidified factory oil on the pivot points. I did that and used my old points file and cleaned the two contact points. I then used a tiny needle applicator and applied gun oil to the pivot points very sparingly. I set it up on a battery and then set a stop watch. It runs beautifully. It was a consistent 55.7 seconds between the audible click when the points would contact and snap apart, thereby winding the mainspring for another minute. It got kind of addictive after a while: 55.79, 55.72, 55.75 seconds... for 25 minutes straight. It wound up being more of test of my thumb reaction time on the lap counter at that point. I left it overnight hooked to the battery and this morning it s right on time (actually a little under a 1 minute fast as compared to my Iphone). And the battery was still registering the same 12.7 volts as the day before, so there isn't much of a power drain after all with these factory electric clocks.

[njsteve]

It's gonna be a major project to install that new clock since the dash is so complicated in terms of fasteners. I found that out when installing the factory AM/FM a couple years ago.

[njsteve]

I received the ORIGINAL invoice from Marti Auto. They have the original invoices from specific assembly lines and will sell you your original document as long as you provide them with a copy of the title or registration to prove you have the car. Look at that window sticker price: $8,585 !!!

[njsteve]

Here's the preliminary Marti Report. I ordered the Elite version which comes framed with a window sticker and other stuff. Due to be delivered in a couple months.

[njsteve]

I spent the afternoon installing the working replacement clock and ran into some interesting finds.
1) original clock doesn't work
2) original clock is deep fried
3) Portions of the printed dash circuit relating to the aforementioned deep fried clock are melted.

Here's some photos. I am constantly thanking my grandfather Simon for buying all the factory repair manuals for this car back in 1971. It listed the steps taken and fasteners that needed to be removed to get the dash pad out and then the lower gauge cluster. Very informative in terms of instructions! Compare that to the similar vintage Mopar manuals which would say something like: Step 1: Open car door. Step 2: Remove gauges. Step 3: Repair gauges. Step 4: Reverse procedure. Step 5: Close car door.

Once I got the original clock out and saw that it was toasted, I temporarily installed the new clock but it was not getting any power. So I pulled the entire gauge pod and found out that the printed circuit was melted in at least three places along the "hot" route to the clock. It is nice of Ford to list their part numbers on everything on this car. Very helpful: D0VF-10C956. Of course there aren't any out there but I'll start looking anyway. I did see a guy selling the entire dash instrument panel for $1,400 on ebay. LOL. When I looked at the close ups I could see similar burn marks on his printed circuit as well.

My solution was to disconnect the original bad clock terminal ends on the printed circuit and cover them with electrical tape. I then routed a hot wire and a ground wire from the gauge terminals to the fuse box and the dash frame, and the clock immediately started running and keeping accurate time, clicking every 55.7 seconds to rewind. While I was in there I checked all the dash bulbs and miraculously, they were all still good.

[scuncio]

Nice repair. Those early printed circuits are scary.

[njsteve]

That was a frightening discovery. Luckily it didn't fry the entire car. It happened at least 34+ years ago because the clock never worked as long as we have had the car (circa 1991).