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#1
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Get a 50 pint/day dehumidifier. I run mine 24/7 all summer and my shop is comfortable until the temp gets over 75*. I put a mini split A/C in last year and run that sparingly, but it is a huge benefit to work in comfort.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
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#2
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I have dehumidifiers on storage and paint booth. Thought about a mini split for the paint booth but just another thing that is a want rather than a need. I was chuckling a bit about the working in the shop. They took the Methylene out of the stripers because it was causing people to pass out! Even with it now gone i do it all open air. I love this hobby but id like to be around and kicking for years to come
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#3
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Some cars seem to have some surface rust which is always alot of work to get clean. I strip the paint and then get out muriatic acid. Nasty stuff to work with. Doesnt take too long for the rust pits to disappear. This roof was not too bad but still a multi day event to get cleaned and neutralized before starting the first step of body work.
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#4
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Question, after the muriatic acid and neutralizing, do you put anything on the metal to prevent flash rust? TIA
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#5
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I’m also curious how you apply and neutralize the muriatic acid.
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#6
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You just need a strong base solution like water and baking soda. You will still get some amount of light rust, just no way to get around it.
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#7
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No, its just alot of hard work after that. Wire wheel the entire top, followed by a d/a. Even after doing a day of body fill and blocking I will probably hit it again before putting down some primer. I think a little OCD at this stage will pay dividends later.
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