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#1
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Nice work!
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69 RS/Z 302 VE3 Daytona 69 Chevelle SS 396 375 69 T/A clone LS6/6 speed 90 Formula 350 |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Zman1969 For This Useful Post: | ||
OneStopRestoration (01-11-2024), Pro Stock John (01-10-2024) | ||
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#2
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The LH quarter was orginally hit like i have mentioned before. I had some cleaning up to do as the previous body shop hacked off the quarter with an air chisel. Had to replace metal in the rocker area as this was all distorted and then brazed with the new quarter. Just alot easier to remove, and replace with some donor sections of another original. Outer wheel house was crumpled so i cut it back and then brought in a new NOS piece. Trace, cut and install with a few dimensional checks to be sure its all back to where it needs to be for the quarter to fit nicely. Even managed to get this area sand blasted and sealed right before the midwest got that slushy snow storm.
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| The Following 11 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
67 Nova Boy (04-11-2024), 69M22Z (01-11-2024), big gear head (01-11-2024), dykstra (01-12-2024), gtomike1967 (01-12-2024), L_e_e (01-22-2024), mhurd (01-11-2024), olredalert (01-11-2024), SS427 (01-22-2024), Stihl (01-29-2025), Zman1969 (01-17-2024) | ||
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#3
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Several years back i got a full set of 68 NOS quarters for next to nothing compared to todays prices. I have a 68SS waiting to be restored but its a New Mexico car. It has zero rust so I didnt have much incentive to hold onto them. As many probably know the area where the bumper fits on both 69 and 68 is quite different. The 68 rear lower quarter at the bumper is angled to match the bumper while the 69 is pretty much straight up and down. This procedure was one where I had to take my time, measure, cut, measure, cut, cut some more, cut again, pray a tad and then very slowly weld the two panels together. After grindin down and smoothing the area I just hammer and dolly to get it so nothing but a sliver of body filler will be needed to achieve a perfectly flat lower quarter section. I probably spent a full day just working on this, but it came out REALLY good. I will have to do this to the passenger side as well. I always like using the existing other side of the car like a mirror image to check my work. Did some checking with the other rocker/quarter and found things to almost be within a 1/32" which is honestly just dumb luck. Many a times I find things from side to side to be off by as much as a 1/4"
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| The Following 16 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
66BoxNova (01-11-2024), 67 Nova Boy (04-11-2024), 69 Post Sedan (01-22-2024), 69M22Z (01-11-2024), big gear head (01-11-2024), Bill Pritchard (01-11-2024), Dave Rifkin (01-11-2024), dykstra (01-12-2024), L78_Nova (01-17-2024), mhurd (01-11-2024), olredalert (01-11-2024), ragtop (01-11-2024), SS427 (01-22-2024), SuperNovaSS (01-16-2024), Tenney (01-11-2024), Zman1969 (01-17-2024) | ||
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#4
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Drivers quarter is now on. Happy with the door gap and face fitment. If you handnt already noticed i replaced the entire rear panel as well because of the trunk gutter being all mangled and the fact the the drivers side was wrinkled up and just couldnt be brought back. Got nice fitment beteween the deck lid, quarter, and quarter extension on to the passenger side now.
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| The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
66BoxNova (01-22-2024), 67 Nova Boy (04-11-2024), big gear head (01-22-2024), cheveslakr (01-22-2024), dykstra (01-22-2024), Hawkeye (01-22-2024), mhurd (01-22-2024), olredalert (01-22-2024), PeteLeathersac (01-22-2024), RPOLS3 (01-22-2024), SS427 (01-22-2024), Stihl (01-29-2025) | ||
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#5
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Really wish I could have saved the passenger side but there is just to many issues around the wheel arch, lower return, and both inner and outer wheel houses just behind the wheel. Managed to save the trunk return, and rinse and repeat on making the 68 quarter a 69. I still need to repalce a small section of the inner wheel house and the very outer edge and lower rear section of the outer. More to come. Getting close to body pulling time.
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| The Following 16 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
67 Nova Boy (04-11-2024), 69M22Z (01-22-2024), big gear head (01-22-2024), Bill Pritchard (01-23-2024), cheveslakr (01-23-2024), Dave Rifkin (01-22-2024), dykstra (01-22-2024), gtomike1967 (01-23-2024), L78_Nova (01-22-2024), olredalert (01-22-2024), PeteLeathersac (01-22-2024), ragtop (01-22-2024), RPOLS3 (01-22-2024), Stihl (01-29-2025), SuperNovaSS (01-25-2024), Tenney (01-22-2024) | ||
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#6
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Quote:
__________________
1969 SS 396 300 deluxe post car 1969 SS 396 300 deluxe hardtop 1969 SS 396 chevelle 1978 chevy shortbed step side 1983 chevy shortbed 1985 chevy shortbed If a hammer and duct tape wont fix it u have electrical problems! |
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#7
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I double check to make sure there is no major damage or rot. If I do find questionable bushings I just put metal spacers back in during assembly. The frame is kinda like a wet noodle as it is, especially in the rear. Its obviously ideal all body points touch down evenly but i have had cars where its not, and I didnt do any major panel replacement.
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#8
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I have deviated on 68-72 cars with the shifter because the muncie to me is just not ideal. I grabbed an old hurst setup, and restored it. One of the trick things to do is machine all the bushings for the rod pin points so its super tight.
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| The Following 13 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
69M22Z (12-14-2024), chevyman0429 (12-14-2024), Dave Rifkin (12-14-2024), dykstra (12-14-2024), L78_Nova (12-16-2024), olredalert (12-14-2024), PeteLeathersac (12-14-2024), ragtop (12-14-2024), RPOLS3 (12-14-2024), Tenney (12-15-2024), Tuna Joe (12-14-2024), Woodrock (12-15-2024), Zman1969 (12-16-2024) | ||
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