Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Mitch,
Thanks for the suggestions. I ran a tap through and cleaned the threads with brake clean. I found the issue, just didn't look closely enough the first time. When I put the correct knurled bolt in, it shifted the starter slightly inward toward the oil pan rail. The relief cut into the starter mounting flange that was supposed to clear the oil pan rail was not enough once the starter shifted over that small amount. I took it off, filed it, and it went right on. To test the proper engagement of the knurl in the block, I was able to use one washer under the head of the bolt and that was enough to compensate for that section of 10mm knurling that protruded past the starter mounting flange. I have access to a tool and die shop here at work so I will have them turn a small section off the knurling on the bolt and I should be good to go. I drove the car through the neighborhood yesterday, and I have to adjust the clutch some more as the engagement point is too close to the floor pan. It's getting close to being back on the road now!
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Andy 1967 Camaro 406 4 speed 1969 C/10 383 5 speed 1969 D300 318 4 speed 1969 Super Bee 383 4 speed 1972 K/5 350 Turbo 350 1972 Duster 340 727 1974 'Cuda 340 4 speed |
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#2
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Good to see you are making progress. Extending the rod to the fork 1/4" will raise the pedal engagement point off the floor. Free play at the top should still be 1-2 inch, but I always adjust mine to a comfortable engagement at the bottom.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
Andy (10-16-2023) | ||
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