"Plain Jane" 1970 Nova Build

[Arrowsmith]

Hey Mark! Pretty easy answer..I just like the dash better in the 69 and up cars😉

[lowmile]

Here's what it would look like with the 4sp lever through the floor.

[Arrowsmith]

After driving the Nova for a bit and discovering it had some issues (brakes weren't stellar and the acceleration wasn't exactly awe-inspiring...L-O-L), I decided it was time to get started. This is a photo of it in my old garage on the west coast:



This is what the bones were like from the engine compartment side. The undercarriage was and is the same -- clean and nicely painted. Everything was painted individually, including the fasteners.



I pointed out in the original "just finished this" post that the rad support is a reproduction. It needed one extra hole drilled, but otherwise fit like a glove. In order to get the support in, much of the front end had to come off, along with the inner fenders. That gave me the opportunity to replace all of the freshly painted hardware with more correct phosphate plated hardware. Here are two photos of the DeWitts "black ice" aluminum rad I selected. It's an awesome high quality piece.




While the front end was apart, I replaced the subframe and rad support bushings with these slick pieces from Detroit Speed (I also used their optional ARP stainless fasteners):




The frame mounts were swapped out for correct big block examples. I use AN (aircraft) fasteners where possible.



I removed the heater assembly and replaced it with a correct delete plate. I also used AN fasteners to mount it. The flash shows a color difference between the plate and the firewall, but in normal lighting you can't see the difference. That's a new gutter without the transmission control spark. I stripped a new wire harness back to remove all of the wiring.



With the big block rad support, I also included a complete OE-style big block rad mount and shroud arrangement. I had to drill holes for the rubber flap clips but that's about it. Note the bump starter switch. I put them in all of my modified cars, because it makes setting the valves a whole bunch easier.



Both the ignition and forward wiring harness assemblies were replaced. I also added a set of big block battery cables and a new battery tray. You'll note the wiring harness isn't looped alongside the windshield washer hose. In past builds I've routed the harness out of the way, over the inner fender. I did the same here. I replaced the master cylinder with one for 1969 disc brake Camaro. I might have pictures of the front brakes I can show later, but I used two piece made-in-USA rotors.



This is another look at the engine compartment. I replaced the tie rod sleeves with Hotchkiss billet jobs. The tie rod ends and the idler were replaced. The AN bolts are in "backwards" on the idler arm. I do this to save my skin when working on the car...L-O-L. It's getting closer, but still a bit away from being done...L-O-L:



Here's a link to a 4 minute video on my progress to this point. You'll get more build details in the video:

https://youtu.be/LEG7I-MOwio

Til next time!

[black69]

my first girlfriend had the identical to a tee of this car when we started dating in highschool. that was in 75-76. So the car was only a few years old and was mint mint mint. same color same interior.
Nobody knew back then how desirable they would be today.

Love the build of the car you have.

[John Brown]

The first thing I took note of was the blocked off vent on the far left side of the dash. I had to make one for my 70 Nova when I did a heater delete.

[Arrowsmith]

Moving along...slowly...L-O-L

I couldn't find a correctly built front cross over brake line plus I needed to plumb and wire the line lock. So...I built all of those lines myself from stainless steel. Hardline and all fittings are from Earl's. This is the completed line lock plumbing. This is one of those "looks easy enough" tasks, but to get it right takes some time:



This is a photo of one of the ways I figure out brake line bends:



Here's one of the "successful" lines (many aren't so successful!):



Some of the seemingly simple lines can prove challenging. Case-in-point is this feed line to the line lock. It consumed several mistakes to get it done:



I like to use a Weatherpack connector for things like the line lock. If it ever fails, then it's easy to remove and replace.



This is a wee bit amusing when I look back at it. Huge mess (in my old garage) building cutting, annealing, bending, flaring line. I prefer to anneal the hard line prior to flaring, hence the need for the MAP gas. Otherwise the line can crack. In addition, I lap the female side of the flares.



Here's a couple of photos of the finished brake lines:




Another thing I did was to send off the hood hinges, springs, hood latch and catch to Steve Gregori just before he sold Detail Plating. The car originally had these parts nicely painted, but that bugged me . I also replaced/added a number of ground straps.




This link will take you to a video that details the tools/equipment I use to build brake lines. There are a number of tools, ideas and tips you might not consider at first glance:

https://youtu.be/_9dibgkmPoU

That's a wrap for this segment. I'll be back...L-O-L

[CamaroNOS]

This is a little piece of artwork. Just love your detail.

Paul