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Old 09-24-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan1969Chevelle View Post
I think my inner fender plates are done:-)

I started restoring the fan, huge ugly defects... the paint doesn’t like the blades... I will have to try again...

Ryan W31

Assuming it has/had a fan clutch - probably getting some fish eyes due to silicone leaking from the fan clutch over the years. Fairly common restoration issue if I recall. May take a couple/several coats of paint with sanding in between to smooth out the fish eyes.
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RPOLS3 View Post
Assuming it has/had a fan clutch - probably getting some fish eyes due to silicone leaking from the fan clutch over the years. Fairly common restoration issue if I recall. May take a couple/several coats of paint with sanding in between to smooth out the fish eyes.
I think so, I media blasted it, lightly, lightly, then washed it in solvent, then washed it in Acetone.... and expected no residue. (Looks like huge fish eye craters)

Second coat of paint looks much better... may sand or may start over, or maybe it will be ok as is. TBD.

Ryan W31
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1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold
1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:04 PM
Bernhard Bernhard is offline
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Originally Posted by Ryan1969Chevelle View Post
I think so, I media blasted it, lightly, lightly, then washed it in solvent, then washed it in Acetone.... and expected no residue. (Looks like huge fish eye craters)

Second coat of paint looks much better... may sand or may start over, or maybe it will be ok as is. TBD.

Ryan W31
I have had good luck with wax and grease remover. Is your paint and media blast free of contaminants
Like with any Autobody shop chemical safety first. Correct solvent rated gloves, eye protection,ventilation, respirator and disposal of waste are all important.
We were taught to wash the car/parts first, then wax and grease remover. Only after cleaning was the car/parts ready to be sanded or media blasted.
After sanding or media blasting we would wax and grease remove the substrate again.
Oil from your bare hands after blasting/sanding can contaminate the substrate, that's why we would use clean gloves when handling parts that were in the white/bare metal.
Contaminate free painting is time consuming.
I have seen a shop go nuts trying to find the source of contaminants in their paint process. It was traced back to new techs over oiling their tools.
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Last edited by Bernhard; 09-26-2018 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 09-28-2018, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bernhard View Post
I have had good luck with wax and grease remover. Is your paint and media blast free of contaminants
Like with any Autobody shop chemical safety first. Correct solvent rated gloves, eye protection,ventilation, respirator and disposal of waste are all important.
We were taught to wash the car/parts first, then wax and grease remover. Only after cleaning was the car/parts ready to be sanded or media blasted.
After sanding or media blasting we would wax and grease remove the substrate again.
Oil from your bare hands after blasting/sanding can contaminate the substrate, that's why we would use clean gloves when handling parts that were in the white/bare metal.
Contaminate free painting is time consuming.
I have seen a shop go nuts trying to find the source of contaminants in their paint process. It was traced back to new techs over oiling their tools.
Thanks for the note, all true!!

Ryan W31
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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Old 09-28-2018, 12:51 AM
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So I have prepared a few more parts.

I hit the OAI scoops with Back to Black a second time, looking better....

I removed the extra welded plates and bracketry from the Clutch pedal and media blasted and painted the pedals. ( I have the new pads and bushings ready)

The hole in the Clutch pedal for the Clutch rod was way egg shaped, so I bored it out and will make a bushing to freshen it up.

Tomorrow Nick Morocco is visiting to help me assemble as many restores, prepared, purchased (ready) parts as possible.

Saturday Al Corporon is coming to help as well, this will make mounting the bumpers, and pulling the hood off to redo the hinges so much easier. (Side note Evaporusted parts need coated in something other than evaporust.... I may Have read the directions wrong but I thought it said parts can be re dipped for rust prevention... nope they rust.

I am so thankful for all the people who have helped me along the way... and there are still a few long days to go.

Ryan W31
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1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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Old 10-01-2018, 03:21 AM
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I have to send a huge thank you to Nick Morocco and Al Corporon for helping me this weekend.

Nick stayed here and helped Friday, Saturday, and today, sun up to sun down, and Al was here Saturday. (Many hands makes light work)

These guys made it possible for me to get to MCACN!!

Gory details to follow.

Ryan W31
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold
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1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan1969Chevelle View Post
I have to send a huge thank you to Nick Morocco and Al Corporon for helping me this weekend.

Nick stayed here and helped Friday, Saturday, and today, sun up to sun down, and Al was here Saturday. (Many hands makes light work)

These guys made it possible for me to get to MCACN!!

Gory details to follow.

Ryan W31
Late to the party. But you are most welcome.
I thoroughly enjoyed turning a wrench 🔧 on your car.
Great to meet Nick. Just a fabulous day.
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