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#1
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If you use 1 1/4" pipe its the correct size and will not damage the drive gear...
The steel drive gears are a very close interference fit, doesn't take much effort... By the time you get the torch out and lit, I'd already have the gear on the main shaft... It just seems like a big production for a simple task... Hope this helps... Crash |
#2
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Update: Success...steel drive gear installed.
I preheated the oven to 500 degrees, then heat soaked the drive gear for 30 minutes. With swift action normally reserved for a trained Olympian, I positioned the gear on the output shaft and in one fluid motion, placed the iron pipe "driver" over the shaft and tapped...almost nothing. Tapped again...absolute nothing. Tapped it off and I got maybe 20-30 thou engagement. Okay, on to plan B. Fired up the torch, took it to a nice dull red and it literally slipped on without any coaxing. Actually had time to check the position without being rushed. Lots of ways to skin a cat, but heating the gear in an oven to 500F just wasn't quite enough. If the output shaft were out of the trans, I would have preferred to press the gear on, but the torch method definitely worked for me.
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Steve Nuwer 1970 Z28, Norwood 03A, 48 48, 723 Int, M20, COO, 2021 Legends Platinum restored 1970 L78, Norwood 04C, 17 17, 711 Int, M21, COO, born-with drivetrain project. 1972 Z28, Norwood 11C project, born-with drivetrain, 26 26, 775, M20, CGG project 1970 Z28, Norwood 05C, 48 G, 720 Int, M21, COZ, Original Unrestored (SOLD) www.2ndGenZ.com |
#3
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Bottom line -- ya' got it installed ... TAZ
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
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