1970 GTO the next project

[jasonL78]

SPI EPOXY requires you to have your shop at 70 degrees for 24 hours. During the winter I would have a problem with this requirement. I use OMNI epoxy and high build primer. Its about the same price for 2 workable gallons.

[jasonL78]

Time to start mocking up the front nose.

[jasonL78]

First round of test fitting the new sheet metal. Overall fitment is OK, but you know all this aftermarket sheet metal needs rework to get all the body lines to line up. The hood actually fit real nice it was the fenders I will have to rework. The door to fender radius is way off you can see this in the one picture and when I fixed it. I had to drill all the spot welds along the fender edge relief cut the sheet metal, pull it out, and re-weld.

Now when the rubber nose was on the car the top edge of the fender was way to high but was fine at the hood edge. I had to drill out all the spot welds along the front of the fender and push the top edge down and re-weld it to the inner frame of the fender. One fender completed in just about 6 hours. Lots of test fitting to get the fender to line up.

[David C.]

Looking really good, your doing a great job! Reminds me of a Camaro convertible I got from another shop. Previous shop drilled holes in a new complete trunk pan assembly, but did not clamp it down to frame rails. They ended up welding the holes shut, but leaving a gap covered with seam sealer!

[jasonL78]

I know they didn't fit this good from the factory but you know me I just couldn't leave it alone. Front sheet metal is all test fitted. Just have to finish this rubber nose lots of digs and scratches to fix.

[jasonL78]

Lots of work to get this nose straight again. I'm priming the front end this weekend!

[jasonL78]

I now have all the body panels in primer. The rubber nose will need another coat of primer. The first round of blocking should start next week.