New garage to be built need your input

[X66 714]

I did my garage 32 x 60 with 3 bay doors. Can't remember if they're 16' or 18'. I got the highest "R" value I could for them. We went 8-8-16 split face block. 2x4 interior walls w/exterior siding instead of sheetrock. If you're also a sign collector, you'll know why. Used a peeked roof with green standing seem metal roofing, Floor was done in light grey epoxy. Walls & ceiling is done in bright white semi gloss for easy cleaning & high visibility. I use 2/3 of the garage for storage & the other 1/3 for working. The working bay has 8 4' double tube lights staggered. the other bays have 4 4' double tube lights staggered per bay. Also put in 3 light switches so I could turn on only the lights I needed. I could only go 9'8" without an engineering stamp. Build as tall & as large as you can. Except for the rise in my property taxes, I don't regret it....Joe

[black69]

I had this built with the cheapest siding and cheapest roof material for 35K. Included 11 loads of gravel and full foundation, 8" floor. Custom engineered trusses (I pre priced everything with the builder, getting the 30ft ones done was not easy for the high lift door). I shopped around alot. Forget thinking Amish builders are cheap, they are not. Went with a Polish outfit out of Chicago. Quality is outstanding.

I think its almost 1500 sq ft. first bay you see from the road is 21 x 24 deep. the next bay is 20 x 30 deep (did not want 30 ft depth visible from road, that worked out well). Last bay (9 ft ceiling, loft overhead) without overhead door is 11 x 24. Again, did not want to see a 30ft deep structure from the house.

why the 24ft depth? My 1959 house I have now and the house I grew up in the city, had that depth. I like it. My moms new house I used to store cars at was I think 20 or 21 deep and I hated it. I would never never never recommend anything less that 24 or 25ft deep. Now if you get too deep, the garage could look out of character with your house (mine sits in the front side yard, wife still married to me). If I made the whole thing 30ft deep, she would have divorced me.

[Crush]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: black69</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had this built with the cheapest siding and cheapest roof material for 35K. Included 11 loads of gravel and full foundation, 8&quot; floor. Custom engineered trusses (I pre priced everything with the builder, getting the 30ft ones done was not easy for the high lift door). I shopped around alot. Forget thinking Amish builders are cheap, they are not. Went with a Polish outfit out of Chicago. Quality is outstanding.

I think its almost 1500 sq ft. first bay you see from the road is 21 x 24 deep. the next bay is 20 x 30 deep (did not want 30 ft depth visible from road, that worked out well). Last bay (9 ft ceiling, loft overhead) without overhead door is 11 x 24. Again, did not want to see a 30ft deep structure from the house.

why the 24ft depth? My 1959 house I have now and the house I grew up in the city, had that depth. I like it. My moms new house I used to store cars at was I think 20 or 21 deep and I hated it. I would never never never recommend anything less that 24 or 25ft deep. Now if you get too deep, the garage could look out of character with your house (mine sits in the front side yard, wife still married to me). If I made the whole thing 30ft deep, she would have divorced me.




Do u plan on heating it?

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[black69]

I have a forced air furnance tucked in the corner. 90% plus. Many fireman do HVAC on the side, and I got one to do it pretty cheap.
Used a ducane (lennox copy). so far so good.

[napa68]

My next shop will have radiant heat. My Dad has it in his shop and it is REALLY nice.

You're not getting any younger Bary...................take care of those old bones [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif[/img]

Tim