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#1
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So are you going to body work and paint it black?
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#2
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As Clint Eastwood said: "A man's gotta know his limitations." [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/cool.gif[/img]
I think I'll just settle for the behind the scenes stuff like the trunk and maybe the trunk floor dropoffs. ![]() ![]() I purposely left the original caulking mess around the rear drain plates to keep the factory made look. |
#3
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And after sandblasting the original aircleaner lid, I repainted it and applied the correct decal.
This decal is made by a Pontiac guy who specializes in 455HO stuff: http://www.455-ho.com/ It is an exact replica of the original in font, color and material. It's nothing like the cheapo sticker sold by the repro venders. ![]() Maybe next week I'll sandblast the rest of the air cleaner. It's a much more involved process due to the complex snorkle assemblies. You know what's gonna happen eventually: Give a mouse a cookie..... |
#4
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BTW, the rear main seal leak stopped leaking!
After running the car for 400 miles since it hit the road, and using up an entire quart of oil in the process, I went out and bought a quart of the Lucas Engine Stop Leak last week. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...7&loc=show I put the Lucas stuff in and then spent an entire day with 0000 steel wool and lacquer thinner removing all the baked on oil residue from the new Gardner exhaust system. I had made the mistake of removing the bellhousing inspection plate and driving the car with it off for several weeks. I figured that would help me find the leak....not really. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] All that did was create a giant tornadic vortex effect that coated the entire underside of the car with oil (and anyone traveling behind me). It also directed a bunch of oil onto the right manifold pipe, creating what looked like a burnt hamburger of carbon on the pipe. Imagine trying to clean a lasagna pan after overcooking it in the oven for a couple weeks. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img] Anyway, I reinstalled the inspection cover and have been driving it for a week and there are no more drips under the car. So either the entire bellhousing is filled with oil and hasn't breached an internal levy yet, or the leak stopped. Only time will tell. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] (Oh, and yes it does still have oil in the crankcase. I just went out and checked the dipstick) |
#5
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Every once and again........................snake oil can save the day!!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img]
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#6
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I ended up ordering a new windshield from Pilkington Glass with the same date code as my original which got a rock bullseye that was not fixable. My collector car policy through MK Insurance via this site covers it without a deductible.
Before the windshield arrived, I had the old one removed so I could do the inevitable repair/paint work in the lower corners that every second gen Camaro and Firebird requires. The areas in both lower corners are always corroded from the low spot where water can collect with no way to escape. Sometimes there are big holes rusted through on what appears to be an otherwise rust-free car. If you are looking at a second gen F-body, always look at the lower front edges of the windshield. If you can see crud and corrosion above the window/dash line, the car is already in bad shape there. To my utter astonishment, once the orginal glass was removed, the surface was absolutely perfect. Even the original butyl sealer was still pliable. The glass guy confirmed that the windshield had never been out prior to this week's removal. Here's a shot of the original backwards date code on the passenger side. What I thought was corrosion in the corner was just dirt collecting there. ![]() And once the windshield was out, I did reshoot the dash and mounting areas since the removal process nicked up a couple spots. So, here it is after a quick misting with flat black from a foot away, to maintain the grainy texture: ![]() ![]() |
#7
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I got the original carb back from Cliff's High Performance http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/ yesterday and immediately bolted it back on. Now I can put the 1972 donor carb that Cliff did a month ago, back on Gramma's Firebird where it belongs.
The car runs awesomely now (if that is an actual descriptive term). It promptly breaks the tires loose just by hitting the gas pedal hard. You can't even tell when the secondaries kick in, it's that smooth of a transition. Between the HEI distributor that Rocky Rottella set up for the car and Cliff's carb work - WHOA NELLY! She still pings under hard throttle, though. I can't wait to pull the engine over Thanksgiving weekend and swap the cam out for the new 068 Melling cam I have sitting in the box. I figured out that the rear main seal only leaks oil when you do a hard throttle run. So maybe it's a combination of a crappy rope seal and too high a pressure oil pump. I bought a nice melling M54DS oil pump which is also sitting on the shelf waiting for holiday engine pull time. ![]() ![]() |
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