PAINT COLOR

[Schonyenko2]

I don't know that I've ever shot laquer over dp90lf. I have over the old formula. While you can use it as a sealer, there are far better sealer systems than thinned dp90lf.

[Lynn]

Thanks Ken. I figured. I already have some, so was hoping it would work well, and I wouldn't have to purchase something else. Am already investigating going another direction. Not always best to use something just because it is on hand.

[m22mike]

Lynn
I have shot blackout lacquer on floor pans and firewalls over DP90 a bunch. I usually go right over it while it's still green, sometimes less that a day if it's real warm in my paint booth....err the garage.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img].
I also use thinned down DP for the sealer coat and never had an issue, and Kenny correct about better sealers.

Mike

[Lynn]

Well, I believe I am going with transtar 6244 (a 2k urethane which is same as 6221, 6224, 6231, 6234, 6241, just different sizes and colors) which will be going over some acrylic lacquer primer (transtar product) which is sanded so thin you can see through it in places. I am going to let the 6244 cure a week, then wet sand with 600, then 1200, then shoot another coat for one more round of wet sanding. Although I painted several cars back in the day, this is my first black repaint (full car any way, shot a couple of panels on an older black BMW about 10 years ago and they looked factory).
Black has to be perfect, so that is why so many steps. If I see a sanding mark in the finish, I will start having puppies. Cursed with the perfectionist gene. And I have the same brand &quot;paint booth&quot; as you Mike. So... I need to be able to sand out the tiny specs of dirt and bugs between steps.

Transtar Tech sheet says it &quot;is compatible with most basecoat/clearcoat and single stage systems&quot; for topcoat. Guess I should be ok with lacquer. I will test on a spare piece of metal before trying it out on my car. I submitted a question to transtar tech support, and will report back.

Sorry again for hijacking the thread. While there is a huge amount of information out there on painting, it really gets thin when you start looking for a very specific recommendation.

[L30M20]

Lynn, Do Not shoot urethane base or urethane single stage over lacquer unless its sealed with a epoxy thinned as a sealer! You will have adhesion problems. Mix your epoxy normally, then add 10%-25% regular speed(normal) urethane reducer to that mix, let sit (induce) at least 30 minutes, and spray. I always shoot the base color after 30 -60 minutes, you can di-nib if needed with 800-1000 grit or white 3M SCUFF PAD after an hour or so. Epoxy is the best sealer, especially if you have a few cut thrus to metal on edges etc. Basic rule: Epoxy under anything/Epoxy over anything. Next paintjob switch to Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) especially for your primers and clears. C

[Lynn]

The transtar 6244 isnt't a base or a single stage. It is a 2k urethane primer/sealer.
Still the same advice?

I still plan to go lacquer on top.

[L30M20]

Lynn, yes seal w/epoxy over any lacquer product, then spray your urethane primer(s), finish block with 600 or 800, re-seal with epoxy thinned as a sealer, wait 30-60 minutes, spray your lacquer top coat. If your using solid black as your finish color, did you ever consider black single stage urethane? Shows better outside, more depth, and easy to sand out any trash that falls into it. C

[Born30YrsLate]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Schonyenko2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Fred, can you post the pics of Schoenthaler Restorations South please. I think Mike might like that. </div></div>

I'm assuming your mean these ones?...I don't think my car got any further South than that for while now... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

[m22mike]

Ahh...are those operating rooms... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif[/img]

Mike [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

[Schonyenko2]

Yep. That's them. Figure by the time I'm 120 I'll have the place paid for. (big smile)