The New Project: Part Deux!

[njsteve]

Hopefully it is a keeper! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

I just couldn't pass up a car this unique, with all the documentation, in a color that technically wasn't available, with its entire original drivetrain intact, and with more options than anyone has ever seen on a Firebird: 34 total. I think that is the new option record for one of these things.

I believe it has more options than the Starlight Black 72 automatic that the F-body team built for the Pontiac General Manager Jim McDonald who was thinking of killing off the Firebird in 1972. They built him a special order black (because he only drove black cars) option-loaded, Formula 455HO automatic. He drove it as his personal car and loved it. That car saved the Firebird line. (for at least for another 30 years, that is). [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif[/img]

Here is the Jim McDonald car back in 2004 at the Volo Museum:

[njsteve]

With a little carb tuning, it will be as fast or faster than the T/A. Normally a Formula is lighter than a T/A, but this one probably weighs the same as the T/A, with all the extra luxury pieces it has.

Maybe one of these days I'll find a nice 73 SD. But I'd probably prefer an SD Formula since you could get them in colors other than white, red or green.

But I imagine there is probably somebody waiting in the wings for me to finish this one so they can get it. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img]

If I could sell the Hemi Charger I could get this baby painted a lot sooner. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]

[njsteve]

Took her out for another spin today. I have been noticing oil drips under the car lately, after recent test drives. Couldn't tell if it was gear lube leaking on the clutch or engine oil. I pulled the bellhousing inspection cover (very oily inside) and soaked the inside of the bellhousing with brake clean, while the wife pressed the clutch pedal. Oil had soaked into the clutch disc and it was chattering badly yesterday. I also drained and refilled the M22. I thought maybe it was overfilled and was pushing fluid out the front bearing retainer after I topped it off a few months ago. It was a bit overfilled.

So, after cleaning everything, I took her for another ride. The clutch worked much better. I got back home and climbed under again. Doesn't appear to be from the trans as the front bearing retainer was still relatively dry. It looks like it is engine oil. It seems to be dripping and then getting flung off the flywheel, inside the bellhousing and onto the clutch. It looks to be the rear main, (very common with the modern non asbestos rope seals), rear rubber oil pan seal, or a leaking galley plug.

So after the MCACN show this fall, I will be pullng the engine to regasket everythng.

[njsteve]

Check this out: One of the guys on the PerformanceYears website found the original Hemming ad for my car from back in the day:

[njsteve]

I just got back from installing the new front coil springs and some assorted other parts. The hardest part was installing the new repro upper control arm rubber bumpers. We had to trim the damn things three times to get them to pull through the slots in the control arm. Doesnt anyone make a correct part any more?

I got the new front coils from Coil Spring Specialties. http://www.coilsprings.com/ They have all the original specs for the cars. I actually had them make my set for a one inch drop in ride height. They do this by altering the wire diameter used in the spring and not by just lopping off a coil. I am glad I got the one inch drop becuase after installation, the front end only dropped about 3/8&quot;. We will see how much more the car settles after I put some miles on it.

Here is the generic Classic Industries replacement next to the new coil spring. Slight difference of about an inch and a half uninstalled height. Anyone need the old pair of springs? The car sat at 28-1/2&quot; at the front fender with the old springs on 235/60x15 tires.



And during the process:

[njsteve]

I took some underside photos while I had the car on the lift. You can see that we had the inspection cover off the bellhousing chasing that oil leak which looks more like a leaky oil galley or camshaft freeze plug since the oil seems to be coming from above the rear main seal. We put some leak detector dye in the oil a couple days ago and used the black light to find it. All it did was put a nice mist of dyed oil on the underside as part of the original Canadian self-rust proofing option.

[njsteve]

Went to my mechanic buddy again this morning and we used his A/C vacuum pump to leak check the system. Rather tedious process as you have to pull it down to 28&quot; of vacuum for 30 minutes and then let it sit for 30 minutes and watch the gauges to see if there are any leaks.

It leaked, so I tightened every hose. Redid the process and it leaked again, only faster. Replaced the rear O-rings in the compressor flange. Redid the test and it leaked. Then retightened everything again. Redid the process and it leaked.

We both then got really frustrated and attached the R134 conversion flanges to the access ports so we could put in some R134 with leak detection dye. Before adding any R134 we redid the test and there were no leaks! It held for an hour with no movement on the gauge.

So, that meant that his 40 year old O-ring in the hose flange nut for his R12 gauge set was leaking and not my A/C system. We both had to laugh after spending around 8 hours repeating the process over and over again. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img]

I didn't want to add my precious R12 at this time, because this winter I will be pulling the engine. I just wanted to know that the system was set up properly with no leaks.