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#1
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I have owned a few of them,will see if I have any old pics around.They were used on the super speedways only.They had no primary metering rods and were 1 to one on the primary and secondarys.Also had no air valves on the secondary.They made VERY few of them.Seems like the intakes show up way more than the carbs.Tom
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#2
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tjs44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have owned a few of them,will see if I have any old pics around.They were used on the super speedways only.They had no primary metering rods and were 1 to one on the primary and secondarys.Also had no air valves on the secondary.They made VERY few of them.Seems like the intakes show up way more than the carbs.Tom </div></div>
The reason that I ask is that my dad saw an NOS one at Carlisle in the 1980's and told me about it when I picked up a few Holley 3 barrels a few years back. I would like to show him some pictures to show that he was right (I was a doubter since I have never seen one until now). -Matt
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Day 2 is Life. |
#3
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that pic of the underside shows the only real diff.From the top they look exactly like a 750 SD AFB like what is on my bathtub pic.Tom
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#4
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You can look for any matched pair of 1850's. The only areas where they may be plastic are in the VS diaphragm cover and the arm that pushed on the accelerator pump. No big deal there.
You won't need to run a choke on this set-up. You'll just take those parts, including the choke plate off. Trust me, we can go outside today and my dual quad Malibu will fire right off. It might take just a little bit of pedal to keep the idle up enough so it won't stall, but the important part is that it fires right off. While you are working on the tune, it isn't uncommon to get a back fire every once in a while till it is fully sorted out. When that happens, the choke plates wedge closed and it is a problem. I personally don't like to tie the VS together. I only want the carb to draw what it needs. I don't want it being biased by the draw of another part of the intake it isn't really contributing to. As for them not being TR specific carbs,- don't sweat it. There are more details I don't feel like typing right now. Basically a TR carb will have some specific components and calibrations when carbs are originally intended to be run in pairs. The 1850 starts life as a basic, single 4 barell intended to stand on its own. I'd be happy to help you doccument the conversion of these carbs to your TR and show what mods enable them to become TR carbs. A popular update kit for the carbs to have a secondary metering block kit added. If you get some with this already done, then that helps wiht the tune. I did this on my carbs. Basically a metering block and a longer fuel tube. Now if you really want to look aggressive, you can look into running the dual feed or center hung float bowls. Some TR give you enough room to run them front to back, but some do not. I was talking to Grumpy not so long ago and he was mentioning that the sideways mounting of the carbs really is best in his eyes. It eliminated several inconsitant problems which he battled while racing. What do you like? |
#5
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Ok, thanks. The hunt continues - along with the learning curve!
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#6
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Picked up a pair of 1850's at Carlisle last Friday with the non-plastic vs setup. All there, including choke setups, etc.... Making a little progress here and there!
Now will need to determine how to cut the hood to clear all this stuff!
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#7
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Picked up a pair of 1850's at Carlisle last Friday with the non-plastic vs setup. All there, including choke setups, etc.... Making a little progress here and there!
Now will need to determine how to cut the hood to clear all this stuff! </div></div> I stumbled onto this old thread... Eric's got my 1850's now! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This kid will be the talk of his school!!! Hard to believe he's 15 now. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif[/img] ![]()
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#8
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I thought I would bring this thread back........I just picked this Edelbrock TR2 tunnel ram up.
Kurt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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![]() 1969 SS396 Post Sedan Delivered to Van-T Topeka KS MCACN Day2 Concourse Gold Award 1965 VW El Lobo Dune Buggy built in the mid 70’s for the Iowa Shriners 1968 Schwinn Orange Krate 1969 Schwinn Pea Picker 1968 Schwinn 5-Speed 1970 Schwinn 3-Speed Deluxe 1972 Schwinn 10-Speed Continental 1973 Schwinn 5-Speed Suburban All Original Paint Bikes |
#9
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Hey Kurt I think you can hide a jug of moonshine in that log...
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Mark |
#10
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Forgot about that thread....obviously I didn't make a decision last summer. Actually I ended up freshening the engine and transmission and doing some detail work instead of buying wheels.
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1969 Nova SS L-48 350/300hp, California car, originally Frost Green with Parchment Vinyl Roof and Black Bucket Interior. Now resale Red/Black |
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