Any Ideas on Engine Starting Problem?

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: musclecar fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wiring and ends at the starter were checked and I even put a new connector on the solenoid (small black wire). If it's a poor ground, is there a specific place I should be checking? So no on the horn relay? Anybody know of a place in Los Angeles that I can have it checked out at? Thanks </div></div>

Do you have all of the braided copper ground straps that connect the firewall to the back of the block and the block to the subframe? Also, use some rolled up sandpaper to clean the insides of the battery terminal connectors as well as the terminals themselves. Then tighten the terminals securely. I've had the exact same problem in the past when the ground fails to complete the circuit after initially arcing across the gap of a poor battery to cable contact.

Also, do you have the aftermarket, replacement bolt-on ends on your battery cables? Sometimes the same problem occurs when the copper cable-to-metal end, contact breaks down.

[firez]

I had a similar problem with my 68 Z. It ended up being a bad spring ring battery cable. If I squeezed the cable end with pliers the car would start. If you are using those cables give the end a squeeze on the battery post.

[92646]

I did not see if you had headers or a big block but this kind of problem can happen when the starter and wires get hot. Remember they installed heat shields on big block cars to help fix this type of problem. I would still go back to the starter and battery and verify everything is working properly. Just because they are new does not mean they do not have a problem.

[musclecar fan]

It's a stock car with 350 engine, auto and stock cast exhaust manifolds, etc. I do have spring ring cables and have made sure they are clean and tight. I also took the ground screw out on the radiator support on the passenger side that attaches the ground wires and used emory cloth to make a good metal-to-metal connection. As to the copper ground cables between the engine block and firewall and frame they are all there and securely attached. When I turn the key the &quot;single click sound&quot; seems to originate under the dash and the batt and generator lights light up (red)as I turn the key. No overheating problems, etc and the battery is not going dead and remains fully charged. It's kind of embarrasing to drive it to a car show and not be able to move it after I shut it off. This is frustrating....

[Charley Lillard]

I would start by changing out battery cables. I have seen crimped cables that looked perfect but were junk.

[68z28kk]

The symptoms are typical of a corroded or rusted terminal block located behind the battery. I run a temporary jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the horn relay terminal marked battery. If the engine starts with the jumper in place you will need to clean the connection behind the battery on the little plastic terminal block. This is a very common ailment on the Camaros. Clint