Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Here 'ya go! Very informative. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
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#2
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Thanks for the information Mark.
My situation is the car gets driven very rarely, maybe 200 miles per year or less, and is not raced or run at high RPM's (except the odd run through the gears). Would I benefit from the "thicker oil film" with the 15-W-30? I currently use 10-W-30 full synthetic from another manufacturer. Appreciate it.
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Specialized Chevrolet Decals |
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#3
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I have used valvoline VR1 in my 68 Z, It has quite a bit of zinc in it and seems to work good
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1968 LOS Rallye Green Z28 |
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#4
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I think you'd be fine with the slightly thicker Mobil One. It's just VERY important to wait until the engine AND it's oil reaches operating temperature before any "enthusiastic" driving. I can't even begin to say how bad it is for an engine to be zinged-up with cold oil just after start-up.
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
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#5
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The oil related issues going around are related to decreasing of ZDDP additive package to about 60 percent of what it was 15 years ago.ZDDP is an additive that provides protection from the oil film being diplaced by excessive surface pressure.This occurs at any engine speed including start up.An older engine that is well broken in will have the cam and lifter surfaces worn to mate each other sufficiently well that usually the newer standard oils will offer sufficient protection,and this is further helped by that fact that most older engine have valve springs that have lost some pressure over the years which reduces the load on the cam/lifter surface.
Newly rebuilt engines with flat tappet cams especially ones with high performance valvesprings need extra protection that the current street oils cant deliver.I use Shell Rotella in all my engines AND add a bottle of cam break in lube or GM engine oil suppliment at every oil change.Either one of these things would be more then enough protection for any engine that was rebuilt to muscle car era specs. |
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#6
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Thanks Mark! I appreciate your input, even if it's been posted before. [ QUOTE ]
Here 'ya go! Very informative. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx [/ QUOTE ]
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible
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#7
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What about Valvoline VR1?
James
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1968 Beaumont SD396 |
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#8
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I think that Valvoline VR1 oil is a good substitute if a guy wanted to save a few bucks instead of the Mobil One. I've got friends that use it and have never heard anything negative about it. It's dinosauer-based and gets by the EPA by not having the starburst-grading system on the back of the bottle. So it's not really certified for street-use you can say. You just need to trust Valvoline's great reputation that's it's a quality product, which it is. In, fact, it's what I use for break-in before the Mobil One.
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
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#9
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Mark...the reason Rotella has reduced zinc levels now is due to the fact emission standards changed for diesel engines and they are now required to have a catalytic converter now. I went out a couple years back and bought all of the old Rotella I could find with the high level of ZDDP and zinc.....I'll be good for several more years.
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1970Camaro Z28 |
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