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I run the BP also!
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#2
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BP is the old Kendall oil. Nothing wrong with it, it's good stuff. I started using Joe Gibbs oil. Arnold Green got me started on it. They have everything. Breakin oil and regular street oil. You yankees can get it at Behrent's in NY.
Larry |
#3
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forget Rotella... their the worst
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aka - Mighty Mouse |
#4
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I've heard good things about Brad Penn, however I hear the downside to BP is that its not for daily drivers and has to be changed more often than Rotella or any other oil for that matter. What do you guys recommend for the hobbyist that has a Hi Perf motor that drives the vehicle more often than on and off a trailer?
-Dave |
#5
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I'm gonna try my hardest to make this my last ever post about oil! I've done lots and LOTS of research on this subject. Rotella now has REDUCED levels of zinc, just like regular oil that everyone avoids now. Now.....it was good to use for about a year or so after the EPA demanded the reduced Zinc levels in regular oil, but it was on their list to follow in having it's Zinc content reduced also. Now, I've always been a big fan of Mobil One Synthetic and if you go their website, you'll see that their "red label" Mobil One 15W-50 DOES have sufficient Zinc and is formulated for older engines. I'm gonna post a direct link to their site about it here shortly, but you can also buy this oil at any Wal-Mart and it even comes in an economical 5-quart container. Now as far as new engines or even a camshaft swap, I would highly recommend a set of EDM-ed lifters (or even a solid Roller!) and naturally a cam-break-in period of only using the outer valve springs. Yeah, I know it's a real pain in the ass to then install the inner springs afterwards, but it's just gotta be done. I had one of the first sets of the EDM solid lifters and that hole was like .012. Still in use with no problems (knock on wood!). That 'lil weephole has become extremely important in that high pressure contact area with the poor quality of today's oils.
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
#6
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Here 'ya go! Very informative. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
#7
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Thanks for the information Mark.
My situation is the car gets driven very rarely, maybe 200 miles per year or less, and is not raced or run at high RPM's (except the odd run through the gears). Would I benefit from the "thicker oil film" with the 15-W-30? I currently use 10-W-30 full synthetic from another manufacturer. Appreciate it.
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Specialized Chevrolet Decals |
#8
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Thanks Mark! I appreciate your input, even if it's been posted before. [ QUOTE ]
Here 'ya go! Very informative. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx [/ QUOTE ]
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible ![]() |
#9
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Mark...the reason Rotella has reduced zinc levels now is due to the fact emission standards changed for diesel engines and they are now required to have a catalytic converter now. I went out a couple years back and bought all of the old Rotella I could find with the high level of ZDDP and zinc.....I'll be good for several more years.
__________________
1970Camaro Z28 |
#10
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Yeah......I thought that's what I said: [ QUOTE ]
I'm gonna try my hardest to make this my last ever post about oil! I've done lots and LOTS of research on this subject. Rotella now has REDUCED levels of zinc, just like regular oil that everyone avoids now. Now.....it was good to use for about a year or so after the EPA demanded the reduced Zinc levels in regular oil, but it was on their list to follow in having it's Zinc content reduced also. Now, I've always been a big fan of Mobil One Synthetic and if you go their website, you'll see that their "red label" Mobil One 15W-50 DOES have sufficient Zinc and is formulated for older engines. I'm gonna post a direct link to their site about it here shortly, but you can also buy this oil at any Wal-Mart and it even comes in an economical 5-quart container. Now as far as new engines or even a camshaft swap, I would highly recommend a set of EDM-ed lifters (or even a solid Roller!) and naturally a cam-break-in period of only using the outer valve springs. Yeah, I know it's a real pain in the ass to then install the inner springs afterwards, but it's just gotta be done. I had one of the first sets of the EDM solid lifters and that hole was like .012. Still in use with no problems (knock on wood!). That 'lil weephole has become extremely important in that high pressure contact area with the poor quality of today's oils. [/ QUOTE ]
__________________
1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
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