comp plus shifter. new vs old

[x Baldwin Motion]

The Hurst website no longer touts "Made In USA" I believe the comp plus I bought in 2005 is also 4NJNK.

[markjohnson]

I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but I've never liked that white plastic alignment/adjustment pin that comes with Hurst shifters. Some people use an allen wrench, some people use a drill bit. I have a small length of slightly over-size round stock (about .255) that I like to use to tighten up things and align everything up just a tad bit more. I've also started using Long Shifters instead of Hurst lately. They're about $100 or so more than a Hurst, but are very high quality.

[Salvatore]

Probably better to buy an older Hurst shifter from Ebay and rebuild it or have it rebuilt.

[Tommy]

[ QUOTE ]
Probably better to buy an older Hurst shifter from Ebay and rebuild it or have it rebuilt.

[/ QUOTE ]

I used to watch alot of hurst shifters and parts for them on ebay... I always wondered why they fetched nice money... I guess I should have been trying to buy some of it. I worried with the silly thing for a while yesterday and am now ready to install the old one. I too paid made in USA money for a new Chinese shifter evidently.


What about the mounts? what do you guys think of the direct mounts vs the new one that wraps around the whole thing. It raises the rear of the trans a little.


Tommy

[ORIGLS6]

I have six of the older shifters that I've picked up over the years. My opinion is, the older units are better built with stronger material. I noticed the newer mounts were quite a bit different than the old ones, although mounting hardware has always been an evolving part of the Hurst production.
Darren's Tutorial may become a vital part of the Hurst legacy.

[WILMASBOYL78]

The older Hurst shifters are a lot like Cumby and Howie...they just don't build them like that anymore

[Plowman]

I grabbed some quick pics from a setup I have out in the garage. This might help ya Tommy, as it is a new (2002 vintage) China made shifter.



The kit does need a little bit of tweeking. I start by omitting the plastic/nylon bushings and using a steel bushing kit. These kits are not hard to find.

The next tweek I use is to back the spring clip with a thin stainless steel washer. Seems to eliminate any slop in the linkage at this point.

It's important to make sure the spring clips are sent all of the way home and locked. Both locked and unlocked spring clips are in some of these pictures.



When fine-tuning these shifters, I don't always rely on the alignment hole, as seen in this pic below. For reference, the shifter has reverse engaged, but the alignment holes are not perfectly clear. You will notice that the outside edges of the shift-mechanism levers are lined up much better to the shifter body than the alignment hole indicates.



Now about the shifter moving the rear of the trans up...



BBBenny is twistin with steel mounts, the shifter spacing will not be recognized in action. They had to go to this newer style because we've all been stripping out the aluminum threads in the tail shafts from banging gears all these years!

[Bob Jenkins]

good information, thanks for sharing!