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#1
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...There is no reason to remove a trim tag other than to make a car something it wasnt from the factory... [/ QUOTE ] I'm totally against tag dancing but here's a couple legit reasons of why a tag may need to be removed...anyone have more?. 1) Not a great thing to do for many reasons but if a body is being chemically dipped, aluminum tags and other parts need to be removed that the process will destroy.. 2) With cars being stored where security is less than perfect, even though it's best to have tags that have never been removed, it'd be better to have such a thing than the tags stolen...there's been a few threads here in the past where this has happened.. ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
#2
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1) Not a great thing to do for many reasons but if a body is being chemically dipped, aluminum tags and other parts need to be removed that the process will destroy.. ~ Pete [/ QUOTE ] I have a friend that dipped his 69 years ago and was unaware of the risks and the dipping process vaporized his tag. ![]()
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Carl ![]() |
#3
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Most if not all the trim tags I have seen look nothing like the photo. The centers are open and the rivet folds around the back side. Then seam sealer is applied to the void left in the center of the rivet. I doubt there is a standard look to these. As for removal of the tag, if you do not and have it dipped, blasted, etc, you will ruin the tag instantly. Even a trip in the bead cabinet with to much pressure will warp a tag before you know you even did it. I have had cars in the shop with so much build up of paint on the tag it was un-readable. So much build-up that I thought the tag was a fake. The best way I know to clean the tag is with a mild paint stripper. Anything else and you will be looking at a repo tag..BKH
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#4
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And I would suppose that if you needed to take a trim tag off for any reason...you could document the process fairly easily with a video camera...
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#5
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I have seen rusted firewalls that you have to remove the tag to fix the rust or replace the upper cowl. Not a big deal if documented right, as bruce suggested video and witnesses. Roger
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67 Z28, 67 RS/SS 396 Canadian, 73 Camaro Z28/LT Carolina Blue |
#6
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Just FYI - The center of the rivit on the tag pictured has seam sealer protruding through it. The center was presumably open before the seam sealer was applied.
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#7
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I've never been in any situation in which trim tag r/r was needed during resto. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I would have some serious reservations on ever doing so.
Having one chem-dipped isn't an option we would consider, and the ones I've had blasted I've covered every tag/# with several layers of duct tape as well as repeated instructions to the blaster not to go near it. When we had (the first and only) car soda blasted, they didn't listen very well and hit the tag. It looked damaged initially, but turned out okay. Non-issue now as I do the blasting myself now (again). And if its built up with paint, just strip the paint as BH mentioned.
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