Low oil pressure in ZL-1

[Joe69Camaro]

NO COMMENT 427 SILICONE KING

[camarojoe]

Joe, I warned you once about personal attacks, this is warning #2. Take your bickering/name calling/parts requests/whatever to PM's. There will be no third warning.

[beater68427]

[ QUOTE ]
Joe, I warned you once about personal attacks, this is warning #2. Take your bickering/name calling/parts requests/whatever to PM's. There will be no third warning.

[/ QUOTE ]

For this reason I have had to refrain from a comment on my personal opinion on this matter. Your engine has a assembly error, to take a risk of damage of your good investment and diagnose it in the car running is rediculous! at the risk of your wallet, your taking a chance of spinning a main bearing and destroying a main journal, cranks are cheap that block is not. Take it out find the problem, When things go wrong its best to just go back and find the problem, not build a new one!! The bypass valve was a good start if it did not work you need to find the problem, the block is a mix of early oiling and the newer gen 6 priority main oiling system same as the iron bow tie blocks, its a good system but no room for error. There are a few common trait problems with them, one is if they alighn bore the rear main cap is too tight, needs to have .005 clearance, this is a typical big mistake with them, If you do not use the gm oil pump and a manley m77 instead they will sit on the inner most stud on the rear cap and areate the oil when it gets hot the psi is even lower, and most the time the pump base cracks when torqued. None of this may be the problem, but to diagnose it in the car versus the small expense of pulling it and finding the problem is in your wallet.

[Postsedan]

Albert,

Remember today is Friday the 13th, Perhaps you wait till Saturday to pull your engine. Good Luck!

Dan.

[Steve Shauger]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Joe, I warned you once about personal attacks, this is warning #2. Take your bickering/name calling/parts requests/whatever to PM's. There will be no third warning.

[/ QUOTE ]

For this reason I have had to refrain from a comment on my personal opinion on this matter. Your engine has a assembly error, to take a risk of damage of your good investment and diagnose it in the car running is rediculous! at the risk of your wallet, your taking a chance of spinning a main bearing and destroying a main journal, cranks are cheap that block is not. Take it out find the problem, When things go wrong its best to just go back and find the problem, not build a new one!! The bypass valve was a good start if it did not work you need to find the problem, the block is a mix of early oiling and the newer gen 6 priority main oiling system same as the iron bow tie blocks, its a good system but no room for error. There are a few common trait problems with them, one is if they alighn bore the rear main cap is too tight, needs to have .005 clearance, this is a typical big mistake with them, If you do not use the gm oil pump and a manley m77 instead they will sit on the inner most stud on the rear cap and areate the oil when it gets hot the psi is even lower, and most the time the pump base cracks when torqued. None of this may be the problem, but to diagnose it in the car versus the small expense of pulling it and finding the problem is in your wallet.

[/ QUOTE ]

Jeff this site is about sharing common interests and helping other members. Great post, keep them coming. Again the wealth of info on this site is amazing. Thanks for enlightening me and our members.

[ORIGLS6]

Agreed Steve. Unfortunately all this information is coming at Al's expense.

Wish I had something constructive to offer Al. It's easy for me to sit here and throw out opinions but for 'insurance purposes only', I think you're doing the right thing. I'd pull it and take it down. That's a serious investment and I'd tend to err on the side of caution. Here's hoping you find something that's quick, easy and inexpensive to correct. It's gonna be one helluva ride when she's ready.


(all this said on Friday the 13th. )