Trucks, Trailers, Towing and Misc Accessories

[SmallHurst]

Darn Olds guys keep cluttering up the place!!! (That is a welcome aboard from another Olds guy!)

As for tying cars down, I look at how the haulers carrying the cars and trucks out of the assembly plant do it. 98% attach to the frame and pull straight down. Some of the new transport are using the wheel nets.

I myself use the t-hooks and the frame slots and cross the straps. If you want the t-hooks to keep from marring the frame, dip them in plasti-coat or use some old strap material to minimize the contact.

Growing up on the farm, you learn that you strap it tight so that nothing moves. I know that some let the suspension move, but I look at that as energy that is uncontrolled when you go over some bad bumps (and may have to do emergency braking on top of that). I have never had an issue with the car going anywhere when locked down tight!!

[wheelhop]

If you attach straps to the frame and tighten, any bump you go over with your trailer is going to cause the suspension to still compress which will in turn loosen your straps as you are driving down the road. I always attach the straps to the lower control arms in front and the axle at the rear.

[CamarosRus]

Not wanting to argue, just trying to learn.........

If you rachet strap the front frame, pull down moderately, those rachet straps are not going to loosen.

I can understand how many guys let the suspension work, let the car float having just secured the lower control arms or baskets straps over tires.

Just asking why this is better.....????

[Chevy454]

FWIW, I prefer our cars sinched down to eliminate suspension travel...otherwise, it's comparable to putting miles on the car without the wheels turning...and on our race stuff (Red Alert & Y-Camaro) where ride/suspension geometry is crucial and set where we need it, the less miles the better.

[BARN FIND]

Running with the car cinched down is putting "miles on the suspension" but all in compression so eventually the car takes a set lower, sorta the same idea as not tightening down the rockers on a engine that is not going to be run for a long time.

[markjohnson]

Rob is right about cinching the car down tight to eliminate suspension travel. If you have an expensive set of shocks like a set of QA1's or maybe even a rare set of NOS factory ones, it can wear them out after many trailered miles. This can even be proven by feeling your shocks with your bare hand immediately after stopping at a gas station or something. They will be warm or even hot to the touch meaning they are going through many cycles of rebound & compression. I picked up on this while trailering my Drag Radial shootout car many miles a few years ago. While I would cinch down the frame in the front, I still used axle straps (crossed!) in the rear but with the knob-adjustable QA1's, I would turn them to their stiffest setting for trailering and then soften them back up for the track.

[BARN FIND]

[ QUOTE ]
Rob is right about cinching the car down tight to eliminate suspension travel. If you have an expensive set of shocks like a set of QA1's or maybe even a rare set of NOS factory ones, it can wear them out after many trailered miles. This can even be proven by feeling your shocks with your bare hand immediately after stopping at a gas station or something. They will be warm or even hot to the touch meaning they are going through many cycles of rebound & compression. I picked up on this while trailering my Drag Radial shootout car many miles a few years ago. While I would cinch down the frame in the front, I still used axle straps (crossed!) in the rear but with the knob-adjustable QA1's, I would turn them to their stiffest setting for trailering and then soften them back up for the track.

[/ QUOTE ]

So, you are saying that your 3500ish pound car riding on/in your 3000-8000 pound empty weigh "suspended and damped" trailer would get the cars shocks hot and wear them out?