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#21
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What ever you do make sure you request a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) when you buy any of the products. Stores are required by law to provide you with one upon request!! Dont just let them tell you that the small 1 paragraph wording on the side of the can is good enough. Its not!!!!!
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IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS, PLEASE, FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM !!! |
#22
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Same process as Ricks only I use the green scotchbrite pad with warm water and dishwashing liquid. [/ QUOTE ] Good point Charley and one I forgot to point out. When using the Scotchbrite pad, you create a little aluminum dust and if you do not use the water/soap rinse, you just end up smearing all around. The water helps remove it. The hotter the better. |
#23
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I do this technique,but prefer to use COLD water.
Using the Warmer water seems to make the material more Malleable,& smears it around to much. I also have had the Green scotchbrite pad colorize the manifold a little.I switched to the less abrasive WHITE scotchbrite pad,and use more elbow grease. Just my experiences. |
#24
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I have NOT tried the below myself, but read this elsewhere on net......
"A mixture of Chromic Acid and water will clean most aluminum surfaces up really well if used correctly. It will also help to protect the aluminum from corrosion too. Go to a chemical supply house and buy some Chromium Trioxide Chrystals. When mixing, ALWAYS PUT ACID INTO WATER and NOT the other way around! Be sure to wear eye protection such as ![]() Chuck S
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#25
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Dave from Iowa, If you look at the M-21 Tailhousing in above pics....I had that "TUMBLED" in Aluminum media, for a relatively short time. The media looks like pyramid shaped 1/2" Dia Alumninum pieces????. I also had ORIGINAL (not the newer design polished) LT-1 valve covers done the same way.
I WONT say they are "DEAD-NUTS" factory the same, but I gotta tell you they look as good as it gets.......I used a LIGHT glass beading first to remove any misc blemishes... Chuck S
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#26
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Bill S, THE same Jeff Betz,indeed. He recently sold his WORLDS BEST 77' Z-28 & extremely impressive 02' Z-28.....and as you said changed direction with an older Chevelle 2 Dr wagon. I've seen pics of NEW 502/502 and Tremec 5-spd. Stand by for further details.....I stayed at Jeff's home during Woodward Ave dream cruise....
Chuck S
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#27
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The intake on the Coupe was in good condition to begin with. Mild media blasting... then steel wool and WD40 cleaned it up real nice... The process has held up as well.
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#28
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Phosphoric acid and Nitric acid dip is the best nothing cleans aluminum better. I used it in the manufactoring of aircraft tooling for years. You can find a local aluminum
treatment company and ask if they will dip it for you.Those chemicals are to be handled by pros and with the right equipment. Sand blasting your intake is not recomended as it is like adding sand in your gas tank use glass. Peter |
#29
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Chuck,
-------The wagon is a 69, therefore not a 2-door. It is one of the cleanest 69 Chevelles I have ever come aross, and will make a hell of a family "truckster". Cant wait to see the final outcome. -------Are you planning a return engagement at Woodward?..........Bill S |
#30
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A buddy and I restored an original set of 69 Z covers just last Sunday and here is what we did to them. A light media blast with some real fine glass (worn out), then cut them with Triple 0 Steel Wool under the wash brush in a Varsol Bin. They were then washed down with Brake Clean and here is the end result. They look pretty darn close the factory finish if you ask me?
![]() Graeme
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1969 Documented Z/28 1968 Documented RS (Z/28 Clone) |
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