Shot peening engine block question

[67since67]

Originally Posted by Tuna Joe

I also like the Evaporust method.
I think I would try and use the heavy duty industrial plastic bag set in water to compress the Evaporust against the block.

I saw a YouTube on this once. As I recall the result was good and didn't require much Evaporust.

[L_e_e]

Originally Posted by Tuna Joe

Lee, that looks amazing. You weren’t worried it would damage the vin stamp?
I also like the Evaporust method. Except instead of buying such a large volume of Evaporust, I think I would try and use the heavy duty industrial plastic bag set in water to compress the Evaporust against the block.

And to be clear, shot peening is where the block is secured in an enclosed machine where it rotates the block around with small bb’s?

The VIN stamp was not a concern as 2 were going in a classic boat and the other in the tow vehicle, the motors were all from 1957 and the car’s were long gone, but I was pleasantly surprised that the VIN stamps were not effected by the process. A retired engine machinist about 2 miles from my house has a small shop out back and has the equipment. I’ve also used Evaporust on many parts with excellent results but have not done a block yet…but it’s hard to beat the shot blast results.

[Lynn]

Before any type of blasting, I think I would get a really heavy duty trash bag, put the block in the bag, put the bag in a big vat and soak it in evaporust. I think that is your bet bet of removing rust ONLY and leaving the surfaces looking as original as possible.

[CamarosRus]

These cast iron parts were shot blasted for less than 5 minutes and LOOK LIKE NEW
Castings.................Then you can Primer, Paint , CERAKOTE or leave Natural and
smother with COSMOLINE.............

Problem for most of you is finding a foundry, parts rebuilder, machine shop that
will do outside work at a reasonable cost.............