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#11
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No. These fittings are NPT, so they are tapered and designed to seal without tape &/or dope.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#12
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Probably not highly recommended by the purists but I've also used neoprene O rings inside the carb fittings. Just don't over tighten the fuel line when you put everything back together. I did this when I was playing with jetting and had the bowls on and off a lot. Left it that way for two or three years with no issues,...... and no leaks.
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Don't mistake education for intelligence. I worked with educated people. I socialize with intelligent people. |
#13
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I have been told by others that blazed this trail before that
the only way to get stainless steel lines to stop leaking is to use a flaring tool and re-dress the flares to make sure they are perfect. I haven't tried this myself, but I will be doing so soon ( with my SS L/78 lines ) ![]() Nuch
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#14
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Thank you Marlin...
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Nick... |
#15
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When we bought our L78 car it had a cobbled up fuel pump to Carb setup. I bought the stock reproduction replacement lines. I had to tweak the two 90 degree pieces to get the centre to centre distances right. Other than that, they went together fine. The flare nuts have a straight thread and sealing is done by the inside taper on the double flared ends. The threads aren't meant to seal the fuel in, just to tighten the flare against the taper in the "Y" block or carb inlets. The stainless is single flared. Doubt you could double flare it anyway. When getting flared, the end of the tube has to be square or the flare will certainly be skewed off to one side enough that it isn't going to seal. Some cheap flare tools are just plain useless on steel and wouldn't even begin to do stainless. I've screwed up enough brake line flares to have some idea of what I'm talking about. It does take a little care and practice.
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Chevelleless after 46 years......but we did find a low mileage, six speed, silver 2005 Corvette. It will just have to do for now. ![]() |
#16
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The stock OEM style "soft steel" lines are the way to go..the stainless is a sweet pain in the you know what!! I sometimes put double gaskets on the carb inlet nuts...seems to give it more crush for sealing...
wilma
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
#17
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[ QUOTE ]
I had to tweak the two 90 degree pieces to get the centre to centre distances right. [/ QUOTE ] Another thing to take into account is that the 2 90* lines aren't symmetrical. If not in the right configuration, they'll be way off.
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TheMuscleCarGuys.com |
#18
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FWIW. I picked up a full set up from D&R. Fit pretty nice.
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1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
#19
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My stainless from Right Stuff never leaked. But getting the fittings on the Y lock started was another matter. I ended up starting them before installing the bracket. Then with everything loose, got the bracket over the stud. Then tightened up everything starting with the carb, I think.
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#20
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Does anyone have the specifics as to the angle of the flares
on the fuel lines to promote proper sealing with the receiving part? Steve
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