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Looking for a transmission shop to restore/rebuilt my 1970 TH400 in N Calif. The prior shop that did the work thought it was good to spray paint the casing silver so it will need to be striped to the natural finish.
This is for a concours restoration. Thank You Dan
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Dan Last edited by DD69DZ; 06-25-2023 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Missing info |
#2
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If the trans is otherwise fine from the rebuild, you may be able to remove the paint with lacquer thinner. Most shops just used cheap spray can paint.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#3
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Thanks, I’ll try a test spot. It just makes me worry about the quality of the rebuilt!
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Dan |
#4
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Hopefully, it was a reputable shop that did it. If the paint cleans off to your satisfaction, I would install and run before spending the cash to have it all disassembled to inspect/reassembled...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#5
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Consider using this. After removing the tag and striping the paint, spray on and rinse off, it can work miracles on raw aluminum. Do NOT use on polished aluminum though.
Metal items like the governor cover and bail Evaporust may work well. - Bill W |
#6
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The cosmetics are important for the right look in a restored car...but the internals would be of more concern to me. First, what is the application??
If this is a high-horse car then you want to be sure the parts are correct...governor, torque convertor, modulator, etc. I assume the tranny is out of the car...a reputable shop who really understands these can drop the pan, valve body and check inside...confirm the other hi-perf parts and the quality of the prior work. Much easier to do this now before it is installed. The tag on the passenger side of the unit will tell the story on the trans. Good luck. -wilma
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
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Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
This is a numbers matching LS6 that I am restoring to a factory level. I am also concerned that the internals may not be satisfactory based on the fact that they rattle canned the casing. I would much rather have a reputable shop take it apart and confirm this rebuild and if they can strip the casing. Does anyone know of a shop in N. Calif? I would even consider shipping it if need be.
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Dan |
#8
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Can you help me understand how to remove the ID tag?
I can't figure how to remove the rivet. |
#9
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Take a pair of Vise Grips and try to grab as much meat of the rivit head as possible,(try squaring it with a file beforehand),then twist & pull out very slowly.
If it's really in there and won't release,drill it out with a slightly smaller drill bit. |
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