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#1
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Am looking for tips on how to restore the original shroud for my '70 Deuce. It is in nice condition, w/o chips, cracks, etc. but it is dull, dingy, scratched, and has a bit of paint overspray. I want it to look OEM, so I have doubts any SEM or other coloring will recreate the original unique look.
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Sam... ![]() |
#2
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I would like to know also, I have recently taken two apart for my z28,the top is good on one and the bottom on the other, I'm putting the two good pieces together.
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Carl ![]() |
#3
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Hey Carl - for a '70 Deuce LT1 it is a one piece unit. I guess in a '70 Z its a 2 piece. But anyway, the resto techniques should be the same for yours and mine.
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Sam... ![]() |
#4
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Yup I guess I didnt even think of the difference
![]() ![]() I always think of the LT1 ![]() ![]()
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Carl ![]() |
#5
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Maybe try some diluted Simple Green to get rid of the dungy, dirty stuff...?
I don't know what you could do with the scratches though...they should be left as a sign of the "history" of the car ![]()
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#6
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I wonder if this would work, it sometimes can help for scratches on the plastic of quads. Use a propane torch and wave it across the scratch area (quickly) for a few waves and then rub the scratch. We have used this method to reduce the scratching on the fenders of our quad racers.
I'm not sure about trying this on rare part !!!!! Maybe someone else has tried this. Also REGULAR CREST toothpaste is used as a polishing compound for the plastic pieces on the quad racers. It has to be regular old crest. Not recommending this for rare parts but it does work on the plastic quad racer parts. Anyone else tried these techniques
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Carl ![]() |
#7
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The Crest should work well in the "cavaties" on the fan shroud
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#8
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Wise guy, eh?!
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Sam... ![]() |
#9
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Sent from Jeff Betz 8/3/03
What I have done to restore several shrouds and A/C boxes is strip all paint and grease and undercoating off them first. Then sand out any scratches with appropriate paper and grit and hopefully get most of the scratches out. Sand with nothing rougher than 400 grit paper before the next step. Then I lightly blast the plastic with fine glass beads to give the entire piece an even look. This will really make the part look like heck, but the next step brings back the color very nicely. Apply a coat of polyurethane clear satin to the part and let that cure. I continue with coats of polyurethane clear to fill the remaining imperfections while sanding significantly in between coats. This is a long and boring process, but eventually you will get the imperfections filled in. Finally finish with a coat of satin polyurethane or if you prefer a flat urethane, depending on your taste for shine. This method really allows the original plastic mold marks to show through and doesn't give that just painted "black" look. I have had no adhesion problems and used MinWax polyurethane spray bomb available at Home Depot or similar stores.
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#10
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Sam,you want to wetsand it with very high grits of sandpaper and it will make it new again. practice on an old one that you do not care about but start out around 1500 grit. that is how i did mine and it turned out nice. alot of elbow grease will make it look great!
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