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#1
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Looking for pros/cons of stainless steel fuel/brake lines versus natural???? I'm restoring my ls6 to be very correct and when it's done will take it to many shows,but I am also going to drive it so durability plays a role too.Plan on using dot 5 brake fluid too.
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#2
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I used them on my LS-5 and was very pleased. The only down side is if the flares are not perfect they may be difficult to seal, and to redo the flare can be a PITA as the stainless is much harder than the steel in regular lines. As for fit..no problems at all.
ALbert
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1969 9566AA COPO Chevelle M-22 1969 Malibu 489 ZL-1 T-56/4.56 1969 Beaumont 540 th400 3.70 1969 Chevelle 300 Deluxe 427 ZL-1 M 22W 1970 Olds 442 W 30 2 door post 1969 Ply. GTX 426 hemi auto. Blue. 1940 Dodge pick up Durango 4X4 1968 Camaro ragtop LSA ZL1 |
#3
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Ditto, very hard to get them to seal. They are also too shiney. If you are building a driver, they are great. If you are concourse restoring a car, I use the steel ones and coat them so they do not corrode and look factory correct. jmo
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#4
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After having to reflare about half the ss lines on my last project, I've switched to original material and haven't had any problems. Although they look nicer, and will supposedly last forever, if you can't get SS lines to seal and have to reflare them (making them shorter and affecting fitment), then there's no benefit IMO. Besides, OM costs less.
Good luck, BCD. |
#5
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I haven't had a problen with the ss fuel lines leaking but the ss brake lines leaked. I eventually gave up and bought the oem steel for brakes and haven't had an issue since.
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Eric Estopinal 68 BB Camaro L35 |
#6
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I have restored Many cars with Stainless lines and have no problem. The trouble with getting the lines to seal seams to be that the flare is not square on the end (where the flare on the line mates with the inverted flare on the mating surface) and occasionally I will lightly file the flare to square it up with the line. Then they seal with no trouble. Usually it onle takes a few passes with the file to accomplish this and I rarely have to do this. The other key is to use a Line wrench and put a wrench on the block it is being screwed into and you will stop 90% of the leaks. Another thing to think about is who you get your lines from, possibly the quality varies. I have used Fine lines and classic tubes with good results. I have put on hundreds of sets and never have had to switch. Hope this helps. Rich.
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#7
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You can also put (just a DAB) of anti-seize compount on the brake line side (back) of the flare to help them seal. What this does is allow the flare nut to rotate on the flare without galling it. It does work, I just don't like the non OEM look.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
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