Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. | 
	
		
			
  | 
	|||||||
| Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search | 
 
 | 
	
	
| 
		 | 
	Thread Tools | Display Modes | 
| 
		 
			 
			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Has anyone ever restored an original rear bumper and had to properly remove the center bracket which is factory riveted to the bumper? How do I remove these rivets so that I don't damage them? I plan to reuse them after the chrome shop does their part. Any help in this matter is greatly appreciated! 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Thanks, SAL [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif[/img] 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I currently own a 1969 Camaro SS350. Although the original drivetrain is long gone, this 4/speed car has a March '69 HC coded block with #041 heads. The transmission is an M20 Muncie #660 case and the rearend is a BS coded 12 bolt posi. Built in Van Nuys.  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
|||
		
		
  | 
|||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Pretty sure you will have to source some replacement rivets. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			If there is an alternative, I would like to hear it. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			The rivets are readily available aftermarket. Don't remember where I got them for the recent 69 Camaro restoration but will check if no one else chimes in. I believe it was Classic Industries.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
|||
		
		
  | 
|||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			I made some by grinding the head of a metric bolt (larger head vs. shank diameter to match the head of the original rivet. Then just bolted it up. You would have to be a contortionist to see that it's not a rivet.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 | 
| 
		 
			 
			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Sal, I got them from heartbeat city. You wouldn't believe how hard you gotta squeeze those things! You can search on his homepage. Just did it, part # EXT 1064 $12.95 for the pair.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	69 camaro Z-28 burnished brown X-77 bought 1978 70 camaro Z28 forest green M40 black vinyl roof PROJECT 99 camaro SS Hugger Orange 6speed no t-tops 1 of 54 11 cts-v black diamond edition wagon 556hp GONE 15 camaro Z/28 white AC brand new  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Thanks guys, You won't believe this but it came to me that if you heat ( maybe with an acetylene torch) up the original rivets and get them cherry red, there might be a chance they could be tapped out with a hammer. The heat might make the rivets shrink. maybe they can be pulled out by a pair of pliers. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Hey Buddy, I saw the ones you mentioned at Heartbeatcity. They don't seem to have that pointed end on them but maybe they'll just have to do. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I currently own a 1969 Camaro SS350. Although the original drivetrain is long gone, this 4/speed car has a March '69 HC coded block with #041 heads. The transmission is an M20 Muncie #660 case and the rearend is a BS coded 12 bolt posi. Built in Van Nuys.  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
|||
		
		
  | 
|||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			The rivets are not really in there that tight. Just use a small Dremel cut off wheel or die grinder on the back and you can punch them out with a cold punch.  Then go down to you local hardware store/Lowes/HD and pick up some correctly sized stainless carriage bolts.  Put the bolts into your drill press and contour the head to match the rivet with a 4" grinder while it is spinning.  Then press the bolt head into some wet sandpaper while spining to get a good swirl mark.  Then install into bumper and bracket with a nylon lock nut.  You may need grind the bolts inside square nubs a bit to get them into the bumper hole.  I used a needle nosed vise grip to keep the bolt from spinning while getting the nut on.  Once installed, very hard to tell and it wont rust [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img] 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			![]() ![]()  
		
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver)  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Thanks Kevin. That sounds like a great idea! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img] I will definitely look into doing that. Nice job. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			SAL [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img] 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I currently own a 1969 Camaro SS350. Although the original drivetrain is long gone, this 4/speed car has a March '69 HC coded block with #041 heads. The transmission is an M20 Muncie #660 case and the rearend is a BS coded 12 bolt posi. Built in Van Nuys.  | 
![]()  | 
	
	
		
  | 
	
		
  |