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#1
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Which glue have you used to install your headliner. The last 2 I did I used 3m super trim adhesive. It's in an aresal can and is hard to apply with out making a mess. I was looking for a good glue in a can I can apply with a brush. It would make the install a lot easier.
Jason
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#2
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Jason...the local shop in Hudson gave me some glue that I used on the interior of one of the cars...it came in a can..brushed it in..worked well..I'll try to find out the details.
wilma
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#3
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Lol... no one has taken on the challenge of installing there own headliner?
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#4
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I've done quite a few. I'd recommend getting a shitload of <span style="font-weight: bold">binder clips</span> to stretch the headliner out before gluing it (and to make sure of the correct position). The glue I've had the best luck with is <span style="font-weight: bold">IPS weld-on 1829</span>. This is the same (brush-on) stuff sold by Year-one, etc. Holds much better than 3M (you still let it get tacky before final positioning). Another tip is I always sand the bows and paint them, it helps the headliner to slide on them when you are stretching it. GM Fisher body manuals explain moving the mounting position of the bows if you need to make adjustments (moving them down for wrinkles you can't remove, etc). One more thing is to install the screws for the dome light, coat hook, and visors but leave them slightly out so you can locate (feel) them after you finish. Hope that helps.....
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#5
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Awsome those binder clips are a great idea. Off to the supply cabinet at work. I have used that glue before on my first headliner. I was hoping to find something local without ordering it through the mail.
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#6
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I use the binder clips on every inch of the pinch-weld. Sounds like overkill, but once you do it that way you see the advantage. Plus. I leave it clipped as long as possible (mostly two weeks) then pull any wrinkles that persist.
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#7
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Actually this basket weave headliner I bought has no creases from shipment which makes it nice. So the only wrinkles should be from adjusting it from side to side and front to back. The perforated headliners I installed before came folded in a 12” square and had a bunch of creases that were very hard to get out. I hope this one goes a lot easier. Thanks for the input.
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#8
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Igosplut</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've done quite a few. I'd recommend getting a shitload of <span style="font-weight: bold">binder clips</span> to stretch the headliner out before gluing it (and to make sure of the correct position). The glue I've had the best luck with is <span style="font-weight: bold">IPS weld-on 1829</span>. This is the same (brush-on) stuff sold by Year-one, etc. Holds much better than 3M (you still let it get tacky before final positioning). Another tip is I always sand the bows and paint them, it helps the headliner to slide on them when you are stretching it. GM Fisher body manuals explain moving the mounting position of the bows if you need to make adjustments (moving them down for wrinkles you can't remove, etc). <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">One more thing is to install the screws for the dome light, coat hook, and visors but leave them slightly out so you can locate (feel) them after you finish.</span></span> Hope that helps..... </div></div>
I like that idea! I will be doing a headliner sometime soon and I've thought about how I'd find the holes after its in. Nice tip! Thanks! Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] |
#9
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Glad I could help guys..
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