Dipping / E-Coating

[COPO]

I am curious of opinions especially among pro-restorers on having a body dipped and e-coated. I know most are against dipping and prefer media blasting, but with the e-coating it seems many of the negative issues are resolved. Here's a link to the site detailing the process. http://www.ecoatking.com/
I often hear w/media blasting it's impossible to get it all out of the car.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

My 'unprofessional' restorer opinion is that I don't like any chemicals on my metal that are from a different mfg than my final paint mfg - in my case PPG. I am uncomfortable with the possibility of any chemicals coming through, or reacting with, another mfg's products. I know dipping is faster, probably cheaper, and non-warping, but it just wasn't for me.
My .02 sense [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[COPO]

Marlin, the site I linked to uses PPG epoxy primer for e-coating.

[Stefano]

Copo,
Are you going to try it on your 1969 Baldwin Motion Camaro?

[JoeC]

Does this process require removing the trim tag? I would not want to do that on a car where the trim tag originality is very important.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Charlie;
I realize that, but it's the chemicals that they dip it into first that always concerns me. I know some guys that swear by it, but it's just not for me.

[COPO]

Joe, the process requires the removal of the trim tag and VIN tag and anything else that isn't steel.

Stefano, I'm considering this process and gathering opinions from others' real world experiences before choosing dipping or plastic media blasting. Mark Stielow used this process in the buildup of the "mule" in the series running in Pop. Hot Rodding.

[Stefano]

I also read the article on Mark's Camaro and I belive that this is the High-tech way to go when you are more concerned with overall durability. It is the best way to get the hidden sections and back sides of the sheet metal protected,but I have not tried it.

I have used chemical dipping but without the e-coat and without this you can't get paint or primer to all the naked sheet metal and you will have rust start on the backside and in the seams.

As far as media blasting,I have used soda blasting and it works great to take off paint, not rust and is very easy to clean up, compared to the other medias, just the opposite of sand blasting. It doesn't harm glass and seems to clean up rubber components real well (like fan shrouds [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img] ).

[Kurt S]

There is body putty and sealant in 'blocked' locations. No way to reinstall it when you're done.
The restorer of Kevin's L89 convert (Milt Robson??) has restored lots of cars and only dipped one ever and that was due to too much rust in the car.
What the pros do should be a good indication, IMO.

[BBIGG BLOCK 396]

I had my 67 chevelle media blasted and it was great,a friend of mine restored a 57 nomad and had it dipped,he had lots of problems,something to do with the acid and other chemicals used in the process.When he painted the car he had problems with paint and primer in places.He was able to overcome all the problems and the nomad came out finished and looked beautiful.He also uses all ppg products on all his painting projects.He just completed a 61 bubble top and it was media blasted and it is a beautiful car also.He and I have talked a lot on this subject and he prefers media blasting over dipping.He does about 3 to 4 cars a year so he knows what he is doing at this.I have seen other cars that have been dipped and they all look great.A couple owners stated the same problems when painting process began,some chemical reactions to primer and paint.Others had no problems.I think if you have a car dipped be looking to experience some type of chemical reactions to products used.

Bobby