INSTALLING HOLLEY CARB

[BJCHEV396]

As a few of you know I bought a suspect Holley 4557 carb that was restored by a carb shop on Long Island a couple of years ago.Members who know a lot more about carbs than I do pointed out that it had wrong parts on it and I respected and appreciated their input.I can't sell it because of it's not being a 100% real 4557.So I might as while install it 'cause the Holley on my Nova is giving me a little trouble and the date on the 4557 matches up to my car's build date of December/'69.I'm not ashamed to admit that tunind high performance carbs has always intimidated me a bit.Never had a problem doing brake jobs,tune-ups...etc.So I'm reaching out for tips on setting up/tunning the carb.Any help would be greatly appreciated.I've never really known for sure if the carbs a re-stamp so please look at the pics and don't be shy to chime in.Thanks,Bill.

[69 Post Sedan]

According to Eric's thread, https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...p_spot_a_re_st the blank squirter didn't show up until February of 1970. The date on your carb is December of 1969. So, with that information and noticing that the baseplate is an aftermarket, I would say it's a re-stamp. IMO

Once you install the carb, make sure you don't have any leaks...and don't use Teflon tape or thread sealant on the fuel lines.....it's not necessary. If a fuel fitting is leaking, it's either not tight enough/seated or you have a separate issue (crossed threads for example).

After setting the idle, hook a vacuum gauge up to the intake or watch your rpms if you have a tachometer. The idle mixture screws on the front metering block should be out one to one and a half turns. Screw in the idle mixture screws, one at a time. Try to get the most vacuum or rpm as you can....as soon as it starts to stumble, back it out a little.....do this a couple of times on each side. That should get you started on the idle.

After that, you will have to check/set up the vacuum secondary's. I would YouTube that information.

Kurt

[SuperNovaSS]

Bill,

First off, it takes a big man to ask for help and I commend you for that. I have stumbled along myself with carb tuning over the years and can get by but I am probably not the best to give advice with the huge experience base here.

Kurt's advice is very good and is probably as far as you will need to go as long as the carb was properly setup to begin with. If the engine is pretty stock than the jetting is probably a bit rich as they left the factory which is fine as long as you aren't chasing tenths. I would bolt it on and go from there. Also, put the carb correctness issues behind you. I know the company you bought it from and I have already decided not to do business with them and have passed the word along.


Jason

[VintageMusclecar]

There is a full tutorial on my website detaining how to perform all the adjustments on your carb.

Click here

For anyone who wishes, feel free to print off all 4 pages and stash them in your toolbox.

[BJCHEV396]

Thanks for the input guys.I've put the carb correctness issue and anger behind me.Figured I might as well put it on the Nova.The choke of the Holley Srip Dominator 830 cfm d.p.that's on the car now is sticking...when coming to a stop and depressing the clutch I always have to burp the gas pedal to bring down the revs and on the highway it's reving about 2-300 revs too high.Any thoughts?

[watk69]

Proper Float adjustment is the best place to start. Again Eric gives a good primer on this and is great for getting it set up before you put it on the engine. Make sure every single orfice is blown out too. If only one of the myriad of holes has a blockage in it, it will not run for sh*t. Lastly after you've set all the screws by vacuum, let your ear be your guide. Set your timing and final screw adjustments where your engine is happy, not what its says on the shroud, it will let you know. My stock 69 Z/28 will not run worth a damn at plugged 4 degrees BTDC 900 rpm. YMMV