[rubbinisracing]

Thanks for your opinions!

Let me respond to a few points made.

1. I may have confused some of you by using the word "deduction", what I meant but didn't effectively communicate is this. A 50k deduction means the same as I'd pay 50k more for same car with numbers matching engine (etc) its just semantics.

2. I never set a top price for the car. Don't know what that would be. Its your math not mine! 250K for a numbers matching 4 spd yenko......Sign me up!

3. This a hobby to me, but I try to apply some business acumen along the way. Let me give you an example.

10-12 weeks ago I was offered a 1967 L88 Corvette Convertible for 750K. The car was extensively documented, numbers, the whole thing. I wasn't prepared to make a decision while on the phone because I hadn't done my homework. There was a lot to think about.....Should I buy this car or buy multiple cars with the same money. I could get 5 - 67 Corvette Vert 427-435 cars for the same money or any number of other combinations. I could take the same money and buy a small office building and earn 75K on a 10 cap plus get appreciation of 7% a year. Turnaround and take the 75k and buy new muscle with it.
These are the kinds of questions you need to have already answered before you get the call. I need to have done this for every car I want to collect plus others that are on the fringe of what I'm currently looking for. When a high value limited production car becomes available and you get word of it, 4-8 hrs has usually passed and a dozen or so potential buyers have been contacted. You probably got 30 mins tops. When I called back, the car was sold.
If you haven't done this before how do you decide when to quit bidding or to tella guy that's too rich for you? What do you do if 2 like cars are at an auction that meet your criteria? What do you negotiate with?
"Sucess is when preperation meets opportunity"

4.Colin, how many guys never got in on the bidding because a particular car wasn't correct. We'll never know, nor will we ever know what that car would have brought if it had appealed to more buyers. It only takes 2 guys wanting the same thing for it to get interesting. Is a shortstop worth 25 mil, must be, somebody paid him!
Your right about great paperwork over iffy, but why do you have to choose between one or the other. Get it all!

5. Sam, your right, percentages would work better but I would have to set a base to work from. I'm not sure where that would be, but I'm open to suggestions.
I seen the write up on this site about your Charger and it was wonderful. It opened my eyes to a facet of collecting I hadn't considered. I've incorporated it to my search for cars. Thanks!

6. Jeff, good job of reading between the lines! I already knew what I'm looking for, but wanted to see if I was overlooking something.
Give me a fully documented Yenko with original drive train!

7. Al, first things first. What a good looking Chevelle you had in Nashville. Tried to come by and introduce myself but with the rain I kept missing you.
Sounds like you got the copo you wanted. Good luck on the resto.

8. 4 Spds.- A.) Personal preference for 4 speeds...just like to work the shifter.....makes me feel young. B.)I'm never gonna get on a high dollar numbers car real hard. I save that for my clone or street rod. Blow it up and fix it.... no tears shed! C.)The biggest reason - Colin feel free to weigh in.... If I need to sell a car(s) quickly to raise cash I can get out in 24 hours. A/T's take a lot longer. Case in point - LMC had a A/T Yenko on their site for 4 weeks before it sold, wouldn't have made it to the web if it had been a 4 spd,

9. Sam in NJ, Right On and keep Jammin!

I really want to thank you guys for the post. Keep the cards and letters coming!